Now Reading
Acne Studios fall winter 2023

Acne Studios fall winter 2023

Acne Studios FW23
Acne Studios Fall Winter 2023

Acne Studios presents the fall winter 2023 women’s show in Paris. Explore the show in detail below.

Show

A celebration of growth and evolution. Acne Studios transports to a fantasy forest with poisonous vines and roots, strangely sparkling tree sap, and exploding flora. Models emerge from the darkness to the sound of an exceptional live performance by the avant-garde electronic composer Sarahsson.

Acne Studios FW23
Acne Studios FW23

Inspiration

Rooted in nature, its symbolism, and mysticism – with futuristic views. The topography of a forest, both brutal and magical, is reimagined for the Fall/Winter 2023 collection. Form-enhancing eveningwear contrasts with voluminous outerwear alongside wardrobe archetypes that conceal and reveal in equal measure.

“With this collection, I was thinking about the dark winters in Sweden, where there are only a few hours of daylight. I wanted to capture the beauty of the darkness in both the collection and the set. Sweden is the kind of place where the city ends abruptly, and then the pine forest begins. I’ve always enjoyed the contrast between urban life and nature, the idea that an infinite forest is just around the corner.

In Scandinavia, nature often rubs up against the city: you tend to have the playground on one side of the building and the forest on the other. But living in such proximity to nature is becoming increasingly rare in our modern world,” says Jonny Johansson, creative director of Acne Studios.

Acne Studios FW23
Acne Studios FW23

Color Palette

Earthy tones of green and brown inspired by decaying leaves and tree roots are juxtaposed with poisonous shades of acid yellow, toxic pink, rusty orange, and bright blue.

Silhouette

In contrast, the silhouette alternately hugs the body with skin-tight collaged and draped styles with micro hemlines or skews generous, with boxy, oversized shapes and floor-sweeping lengths. Cut-outs are a recurring theme, appearing organically in dresses patchworked from crinkled georgette, lace, and crochet leaves and in draped, distressed velvet Devore, chiffon, and knit gowns. Dyed denim and painted leather looks continue the game of exposure thanks to lacing details, a motif that appears later in trompe l’oeil form on body-hugging tailoring.

Fabrics

Materials have been treated to appear faded or wrinkled, shredded, and distressed to give the sense of being aged in dirt and rain. Others have textures inspired by flowers, plants, and tree bark. Delicate draped crinkled georgette, lace, chiffon, and velvet Devore contrasts with painted leather and denim patchwork with 3D tinted stone textures. Overdyed wools have been bonded with metal foil, allowing for crumpling, while thick-pile yarns mimic moss texture.

Acne Studios FW23
Acne Studios FW23

Accessories

Scrap metal objects tossed in the undergrowth are reimagined as ornaments: discarded soda cans become earrings, forgotten ring-pulls and bottle tops embellish chain necklaces, empty tubes of paint curl round fingers, wrists and ears as rings and cuffs. Exaggerated boiled-wool hats resemble supersize fungi, their organic forms contrasting with characteristically futuristic eyewear.

Footwear

Delicate crochet flower-adorned sandals, pumps overlaid with leather scraps distressed to resemble burnt petals, and crinkled georgette-covered boots are juxtaposed with something tougher: chunky, square-toed pumps sporting leather that appears to be melting, heavyset utilitarian boots and knee-high, patchwork-effect leather boots, some with lacing details and pointed lace-up mules.

Bags

The show’s distressed-leather bag style, the Multipocket, comprises a compact, multi-pocketed shoulder bag whose shape references tool belts and vintage camera bags. A round pouch bag in textured leather with a sculptural rusted-metallic handle appears alongside a biker-style shoulder bag in love-worn leather in two sizes. Meanwhile, the ’90s-style Platt shoulder bag, first introduced for SS23, is reimagined in a patchwork of painted leather enlivened with lacing details.

Set Design

Immersed in darkness, the show space is transformed by British multidisciplinary creative and set designer Shona Heath. “I asked [Shona] to create a magical place that captured the topography of a dark forest in a way that felt creative. I love how forests are always changing, growing, transforming, and the clothes are very crafty,” says Jonny Johansson. Shona Heath says of her creation, “Fantasy fauna, acrid and raw, grow and twist their way through oblivion. Abrasive vines craft their way upwards, looking for something to cling to. It’s a strange sparkling world, and the blackness envelops and comforts us, just as the scale makes us feel small and sheltered by this wonderful, calm land.”

Acne Studios FW23 Body Paint
Acne Studios FW23, Body Paint

Body Paint

One model appears wearing intricate body paint depicting mountain and forest scenes, intended to offer a window onto nature.

Sarahsson Performance

The British composer, producer, performance artist, and DJ Sarahsson performs a characteristically multi-faceted, genre-defying original work for FW23. Fusing classical music with metal, experimental electronics, and hardcore, her work explores her experience with synaesthesia and the blurring lines between binaries.

The Women’s Fall/Winter 2023 collection will be available in all Acne Studios stores and on acnestudios.com

Acne Studios Fall Winter 2023 Collection

© 2024 Rain. All rights reserved. Privacy policy.