By Jesse Scott
From the moment Junichi Abe unexpectedly announced his departure as creative director of Kolor last season, anticipation started building for the beginning of a new era. Kolor without Abe at the helm at first seemed unimaginable, but with the talented Taro Horiuchi, a graduate of the Royal Academy of Fine Arts Antwerp, veteran of a highly successful Diesel collaboration, and founder of his own highly successful brand, taking over, there was plenty of reason for excitement about the future. That excitement proved justified last Saturday, as Horiuchi launched his debut collection before an exclusive guest list in a sunny Parisian courtyard.
Tailoring and Time Travel
The collection was grounded in tailoring and its inspirations provided an introduction to Horiuchi’s imaginative, and at times, whimsical design world. Horiuchi blends elements of traditional suiting with playful colours and technical fabrics, resulting in complex looks that reveal more details with each glance and are as fun as they are deliberate. One female model wore a voluminous black pinstripe shirt with a colorful multi-pouch belt that would not have looked out of place on a runner or rock-climber (Look 16). A male model wore an elegant grey coat with neon and metallic details recalling a backpack (Look 15). Backpacks, aside from the trompe l’oeil effects, were key accessories. One, paired with a bralet combined of various pouches and cords, spoke to an unapologetically sporty and quirky aesthetic that was a common thread throughout the collection (Look 34). A selection of sandals and flats, some metallic, were central to this paradigm; while built on a foundation of comfort and practicality, they were possessed of a distinctly Horiuchi flare and humor.
Futuristic, Retro, and a Cornucopia of Color
Guests were told in the show notes that 'time travel, chic humor, the hours, and the waves,' were key words for the collection. Taken without context, the list seems disjointed, but when considered after the show, they reveal an excellent synopsis of the collection. Horiuchi seems to be winking at the audience, not bowing to trends and instead irreverently curating a deeply personal vision that harmoniously unites futuristic and retro sensibilities in a cornucopia of 'kolor.' Given his mastery at combining a wide variety of fabrics, one gets the sense that this initial collection, as impressive as it was, is not only the beginning of a long new journey at the brand but also just a teaser of the many ingenious ways that Horiuchi can continue building upon Abe’s unique legacy. Kolor’s future shines bright and clear indeed.