An Artistic Affair at Palais de Tokyo" The Homme Plissé Issey Miyake Fall/Winter 2024-25 show, set against the sun-drenched ambience of the Palais de Tokyo, unfurled a collection that was both a fashion statement and an art installation. The brand continued to evolve its functional approach to menswear, with clothing crafted from its signature wrinkle-resistant pleats now serving as a canvas for the artistic interpretations of Ronan Bouroullec.
Pleats and Paint
The collection was a conversation between the pliable nature of fabric and the steadfast vibrancy of art. Bouroullec's artwork was not just a motif but became a living part of the pleated creations, with the team exploring various creative techniques such as silkscreen printing and embroidery to bring the drawings to life on the pleated canvas.
The collaboration was interesting because I saw that the team’s way of working was very similar to mine. It involved a lot of research and a lot of trials and testing. In the end, it was a question of balance. The process felt like cooking, where each element needed attention to avoid overdoing it.
Design Meets Dynamic Expression
The collaboration with Bouroullec was a deep dive into the essence of his artwork, with the design team at Issey Miyake not merely replicating but rather reinventing the drawings into dynamic patterns and colors on the clothing.
The series of garments played with the concept of white space and being enveloped in art, with innovative cuts and constructions that allowed the wearer to interact with the art in a multi-dimensional way.
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Challenges and Discoveries
Throughout the collaboration, the creative process was likened to a culinary art form, with a careful balance required to ensure each element was given its due attention. The team's process mirrored that of Bouroullec's, focusing on research, experimentation, and a plethora of trials to achieve a harmonious blend of texture, volume, and sensuality.
The FW24-25 collection, dubbed 'Wilds of Creativity', stood as a testament to the label's enduring dedication to innovation and artistic fusion. It showcased how fashion could be an interactive medium for art, inviting wearers to not just don clothes but to embrace them as a personal gallery.
Photos by Aliyah Reboté Semillano.