Acne Studios Autumn/Winter 2024 Unleashes the Future of Fashion

Text by Ethan Hall

Acne Studios hailed their Autumn/Winter 2024 collection as 'futuristic'—and rightly so. Many ensembles appeared as if lifted directly from the pages of a sci-fi novel, embodying a cinematic quality that seemed to leap straight off the film screen. This is heavily emphasized by the futuristic-looking chunky metal armbands that the models are wearing as they come down the runway.

The show took place at L’Observatoire de Paris, a symbol of progress in science and humanity—a fitting choice given its historical significance. The brand kept their set minimal as just a plain white room with tire sculpture chairs running through the middle for the audience to sit on. The show was accompanied by a crisp electronic beat, an original piece composed for the occasion by Mun Sing.

Beginning with a large fur coat that draped below the hips, the show unveiled a top-heavy silhouette—a hallmark of Acne presentations. This initial piece was followed by two more coats, including a massive fur that completely engulfed the model. The third piece was a black fur jacket that falls to the waist, its chunkiness creates a wide silhouette, primarily due to the massive lapels that extend beyond the shoulders.

Throughout the show, leather takes centerstage, particularly in the form of bodysuits, which undergo various reinterpretations. Initially, the collection introduced a bodysuit with short sleeves and quarter-length legs, featuring a red zip on the side. This design later evolved with quarter-length sleeves and a shorter leg length, with the red zip running across the chest.

Other iterations include top-heavy flare and tight silhouettes, one with the zip repurposed as the opening for the neck and shoulder, and another reminiscent of vintage sci-fi bodysuits from the 60s in both black and white. However, it's the leather dresses that truly shine, stealing the spotlight in the leather department. Crafted by Johansson, these sculpted, rigid leather dresses command attention with their wide sheath silhouette, creating a distinct contrast as the models strut down the runway, seemingly detached from the garments they wear.

Johansson blurs the lines between denim and leather garments as he sends down many looks, which, upon first glance, when coming down the runway, appear as leather. Yet, a closer look reveals they are crafted from waxed denim, adding depth to the garments. The first denim look to debut was a long, button-down, worn black trench, reminiscent of an outfit Trinity from The Matrix might wear at first glance.

But, as the eye moves, you will notice on the inside the denim fabric in the opening of the trench, untouched by the oil or wax, on the inside. However, its white counterpart, appearing a few looks later, more openly reveals its denim essence as blue fabric peeks through the white coating in a deconstructivist fashion.

The collection's knitwear is sleek and futuristic, hugging the body in a way that the knitting direction enhances texture and flow, even as the zip rolls across the body, creating an intriguing division of form. Johansson's exploration of knitwear includes thick collars around the neck and arms, crafting a distinctive silhouette. Furthermore, there are other turtleneck collars with heavy, thick rolls that hug the jaw.

The collection's standout pieces were dresses in a futuristic, minimalist ball-gown-meets-ballerina silhouette, featuring a single wire bustle from which the fabric artfully draped and twisted. Moreover, the classic H-line silhouette, frequently seen in Acne collections, was presented in printed dresses, adding vibrant color to the show.

Significantly, the collection showcased coordinated shirts and trousers in black and grey, the former adorned with pinstripes. The shirts boasted oversized, yet meticulously crafted collars and folds along the body and arms, creating an effortlessly chic aesthetic reminiscent of a busy day at the office. Stay tuned for more fashion week coverage.