ALAÏA Fall 2025: Sculpted Art

Pieter Mulier sculpts a masterful collection inspired by the art of Mark Manders for ALAÏA Fall 2025.

By Louise Daniel

The journey of Maison ALAÏA is anything but linear—rooted in heritage yet unafraid to venture into uncharted territories. It's a house that defies predictability, embracing creativity as an all-encompassing force. From Monsieur Azzedine Alaïa's affinity for art and sculpture to Pieter Mulier's relentless pursuit of new dimensions for the maison, this season was a true masterclass in evolution. For Fall 2025, Mulier expanded the vocabulary of ALAÏA, weaving history, geography, and sculpture into a collection that placed women firmly at its core. His vision transformed the runway into a dialogue between past and present, each piece an ode to the maison's legacy and a bold step into its future.

Mulier's source of inspiration—sculptor Mark Manders—set the tone for the collection. Manders' work, often appearing as if frozen in a state of becoming, mirrored ALAÏA's exploration of beauty beyond the constraints of time and geography. "The message is about singularity, individuality, the eternal strength and resilience of women, empowering them through their clothes. That always inspired Azzedine, and it always inspires me—the strength of beauty," Mulier declared. This sentiment reverberated through the collection, translating into garments that spoke of protection, power, and the sacredness of the feminine form.

The influence of Mark Manders was palpable throughout the collection, not just in its sculptural silhouettes but in its essence—a non-linear narrative that blurred the lines between past, present, and future. Manders' fascination with temporal ambiguity was echoed in the tubular headpieces that framed faces like portraits, lending an otherworldly aura to the models who glided down the runway. One standout look—a bodysuit extending into a pleated skirt—was a striking balance of rigidity and fluidity, control and release.

This duality of form was further explored through padded curves and meticulously placed drapes, each element designed to exalt the body rather than conceal it. The collection's muted palette—punctuated by deep burgundy, celadon blue, and shades of ivory—was a deliberate nod to Manders' timeless aesthetic, grounding the ethereal silhouettes with a sense of history and permanence.

In the world of ALAÏA, garments are more than just garments—they are kinetic sculptures, alive and in motion. The Fall 2025 collection embraced this philosophy wholeheartedly, presenting pieces that shifted and transformed with every step. Pleats and drapes danced like ripples on water, while hoods concealed and revealed with a calculated grace.

Looks 7, 10, and 11 were particularly emblematic of this concept—tops sculpted with an architectural precision, woven detailing that felt almost organic in its complexity. A deconstructed trench coat with an asymmetrical closure and an extended hood played with the familiar, transforming it into something thrillingly new. Transparency was another powerful tool in Mulier's arsenal, turning layers of tulle and silk into living, breathing entities that captured light and movement.

The choice of materials—from liquid metallics to fine knits—served to amplify the collection's dynamic nature. It was a study in contrasts: ethereal yet grounded, deconstructed yet meticulously precise.

Femininity at ALAÏA is neither fragile nor one-dimensional. It's a sacred code, a balance of strength and softness, vulnerability and power. This season, Mulier explored these themes with a fearless elegance, presenting silhouettes that felt both ethereal and assertive. Exaggerated proportions were tempered with dynamic pairings—layered skirts moved with the fluidity of water, while tailored jackets embraced the body with a protective strength.

The collection's climax—a blue dress in a perpetual swoop, Look 40—was a vision of femininity in motion, its surface catching light like waves on the ocean. Gold and silver accents glimmered under the runway lights, each detail meticulously curated to evoke a sense of reverence for the feminine form. It was an exploration of the body as both temple and battlefield, draped in garments that honored its curves and power.

The finale—Looks 43 and 44—were a proclamation of Alaïa's untouchable place at the forefront of fashion. Mulier's Alaïa is not content with merely setting trends; it is defining an era where heritage is neither a crutch nor an anchor but a launchpad for evolution. Beyond trend-setting, Alaïa has become a beacon of what works in an industry often oversaturated with fleeting novelties.

The closing look—a sculpted bodice paired with a tubular skirt that moved with the weight and flow of liquid marble—was a breathtaking reminder of Alaïa's mastery of silhouette and structure. Establishing codes that break their own boundaries is a rare feat, yet Alaïa manages it with a precision that feels almost effortless.

In a world where fashion often feels transient, ALAÏA's Fall 2025 collection stood as a testament to enduring beauty—proof that true art is both timeless and progressive. Mulier's vision for ALAÏA remains a beacon of hope for fashion: it is not just about the past or the present but the dialogue between them, a conversation that celebrates the strength of beauty in all its forms.