Renowned French couturier, maison ALAÏA presented the Winter Spring 2025 collection by transforming Frank Lloyd Wright’s iconic mid-century marvel, the Guggenheim Museum, into a remarkable runway show. Creative Director Pieter Mulier unveiled a show that continues to pay homage to the brand's legacy and architectural inspirations, while boldly presenting his compelling narrative for the ALAÏA woman.
A Historic Venue for a Groundbreaking Show
For the first time in its storied history, the Guggenheim's spiraling rotunda played host to a fashion spectacle. The decision to showcase at this architectural marvel was a deliberate nod to the Azzedine Alaïa's fascination with New York City. Forty-two years after the legendary designer's debut at Bergdorf Goodman, Mulier brought ALAÏA back to the inspired city.
The Sculptural Meets the Architectural
As models glided down Frank Lloyd Wright's masterpiece, it became clear that Mulier had drawn inspiration from the space surrounding them. The collection illuminated the brand's expertise in molding fabric to the human form, with each look echoing the Guggenheim's curves and contours.
Highlights included sensual cut-out dresses that reveal and conceal while molding to the wearer’s form, at times creating negative space. Voluminous puffball creations added a playful contrast, their exaggerated shapes a bold statement against the museum's clean lines.
The ALAÏA Signatures, Reimagined
True to form, Mulier's collection featured ALAÏA staples with a twist. Hooded dresses, a house signature, were given new life with unexpected cutouts and asymmetrical hemlines. The abundantly pleated miniskirts, another ALAÏA classic, were paired with structured tops, creating an interplay between fluidity and rigidity.
In a nod to Azzedine's minimalist approach, the collection did without fasteners, opting instead for the fabric's inherent properties and expert tailoring to create form-fitting silhouettes.
Star Power and Fashion Royalty
The front row included A-listers and influential figures from fashion and entertainment, not to mention: Rihanna. The music and fashion icon graced the event in a custom strapless Alaïa gown, complete with a sweeping train that cascaded down the Guggenheim's iconic ramp.
On the runway, Kendall Jenner and Vittoria Ceretti led an all-star cast of models, bringing the architectural designs to life with each step.
A New Chapter for ALAÏA in New York
This runway show marks the beginning of ALAÏA's renewed dialogue with New York. The brand has hinted at a series of exclusive events throughout the weekend, promising to bring the spirit of the storied maison to the vibrant city.
As the fashion world discusses the show's impact, it is evident that Pieter Mulier's vision successfully bridges high fashion and fine art.
[Collages by Kevin Pineda]
