The Anrealage FW25 collection reimagines clothing as digital "SCREENS" with groundbreaking LED-LCD textiles.
By Jesse Scott
Relentlessly innovative Anrealage curated a kaleidoscope of color for FW25, as Kunihiko Morinaga imagined a future in which clothes are "SCREENS" for diffusing messages. The visionary Morinaga proposed a natural progression of fashion in the digital age, with chameleonic garments made of LED-LCD yarns as an alternative to graphic tees or embroidered dresses. Technically masterful and visually spectacular, the collection stands at the vanguard of futuristic fashion.
While no one expected the introduction of LED yarn, those on the star-studded guest list knew an exciting spectacle awaited from the moment the invitations were delivered. Morinaga pushes technological boundaries in a new way each season, often focusing on light (no one can forget the UV-light color changing dresses launched for FW23) and volume. Guests were reminded of last season's triumph when Bilal Hassani and Nori Nimoto arrived in inflated "Wind" dresses. But this was just a teaser of what was to come: with the grand American Cathedral as the stage, and Thomas Bangalter (formerly of Daft Punk) setting the soundtrack, Morinaga unveiled what just might be his most impressive and poignant collection yet.
The Method Behind Morinaga's Magic
The initial series of looks grounded guests in the inspiration for the collection (Looks 2, 5, 8). Oversized and boxy silhouettes enveloped the runway in a concisely crafted cornucopia of color; the pieces were intricately knit or woven so as to resemble Roblox avatars created using a vibrant RGB palette. Anrealage collaborated with sustainability-focused FOREARTH (their third consecutive season of partnership) to develop the prints. The result was ensembles that combined playful pixellation with human touch and were highlighted by ingenious details such as re-interpretations of the Victorian ruffled collar.
Midway through the show, two looks directly conversed with the stained glass-ensconced setting of the American Cathedral. Look 13 was covered in an exquisitely curated patchwork of 10,000 vibrant fabric scraps; Look 14, which accompanied it down the runway, was a breathtaking black velvet look that lit up with stained glass pattern mirroring the cathedral's rose windows. These pieces served as the natural segue into the defining moments of the collection (Looks 15, 19, 22, 23, 24).
Forever creating bridges between the fashion and tech worlds, Anrealage joined forces with creative group MPLUSPLUS to develop the show-closing looks. They designed textiles embedded with approximately 10,000 full-colour LED lights, effectively second-skin SCREENs bearing truly revolutionary capabilities. Morinaga unveiled several looks in tandem; for example, two pieces reverberated with borders and stripes that migrated between the pair. Guests were enveloped in a mesmerizing cyclone of light and colour, as some designs shifted between 60 variations of check-on-check designs within a mere 30 seconds. The final walk was a synchronized celebration combining futuristic optimism with a touch of retro nostalgia; the looks shimmered with TV static and color bars, rapidly shifting between colored dots, black and white patterns, and stained-glass motifs before exploding into ephemeral fragments of light and melting into pure black form.
An Ephemeral Glimpse of Infinity
While illustrating the boundless possibilities of LED textiles, Morinaga provided a poignant glimpse at the future that transcends fashion and technology. LED "second skins," if commercialized, open a Pandora's Box with the power to permanently change how we express ourselves and disseminate information. Like the billboards in Times Square, this type of design can be used for a near-infinite number of purposes, whether aesthetic, activist, or commercial. It's a reality that's alternately alarming and alluring - and a natural evolution in how we brand ourselves through sartorial choices.
As sophisticated as Morinaga's are, they paradoxically come from a place of simplicity and purity. Anrealage presented one of the most joyous and imaginative collections of the season. Watching the show, I felt like Alice in Wonderland, having dove down a rabbit hole into a parallel universe where nothing is true, everything is possible, and suspending our conventional bounds of logic reveals the most logical realities of all. The most exciting thing about this rabbit hole? It's not fantasy but our future. And it's bright in Morinaga's hands.