“Counterpoint 3” expands Simone Bellotti’s BALLY universe, bringing bespoke basics to life through intentional, forward-thinking fashion innovation.
On a bright Saturday afternoon, BALLY welcomed its guests to the Chiostro Grande di San Simpliciano, a stunning monastery in the heart of Milan, creating an experience that mirrors the beautiful simplicity of his Spring-Summer collection. Bellotti took a thoughtful approach, crafting a collection that allows the fundamental structure of the clothes to speak for itself. With each collection, he continues to refine and evolve the distinct design language he’s been crafting at Bally. “Counterpoint 3” serves as an extension of this journey, merging heritage craftsmanship with avant-garde influences, all while maintaining a playful irreverence inspired by the Dada movement.
An Homage to Dadaism Through Playful Subversion
The core of Counterpoint 3 draws life from Dadaism, an artistic movement with roots that can be traced back to Zurich a century ago. The playful and subversive nature of the Dada artistic philosophy is embedded in the design language of the collection. Archetypal codes were deconstructed and reimagined. By unpacking the primary construction of clothing, Belloti was able to make bespoke changes to otherwise “basic” fashion pieces– the structured black leather suit with a cinched waist had rounded shoulders for a modern touch; a deep-red button-up top with gold detailing featured exaggerated shoulders and gathered sleeves; and the understated gray coat included an elevated, high collar that seemed to “float” on top of the model’s shoulders.
The binary nature of fashion was no longer felt as lines between natural and artificial, historic and contemporary were seamlessly blurred. From a wider perspective, Bellotti crafted a well-balanced collection, where each piece seamlessly blends wearability with a clever touch of artistry.
Accessories and Shoes: BALLY Knows Best!
It comes to no surprise that the Swiss luxury brand's commitment to conscious craftsmanship is evident throughout the collection, especially in the shoes and accessories. For this season, BALLY introduces a new range of footwear inspired by the brand’s rich heritage.
The Glendale heel is reimagined on a slim pedestal, while the lace-up Scribe gets a boost with a block heel, and T-strap platform sandals feature fine metalwork. Brogued derbies and cut-out Mary Jane shoes are designed with bright studs, and slotted sandals are given punk-inspired spikes. Moreover, the Beckett satchel comes in a larger size, made from glossy leather, while trapeze and bell-shaped doctor bags pop with bright floral colors and detailed stitching. Handbag straps and engraved belt buckles take inspiration from antique shoe horns, adorned with playful charms like acorns, bells, and mushrooms.
Under the direction of Bellotti, BALLY knows best when it comes to modernizing traditional craftsmanship through shoes and accessories.
Craftsmanship Examined In An Artistic Light
Speaking of in-depth craftsmanship, a standout reference on the runway is the cocooning silhouette, drawn from the concave steel habit worn by the poet and Dadaist icon: Hugo Ball. The operatic volume shapes the décolleté, while ruffled peplums and sculptural tailoring represent the collection’s relationship to structure and fluidity. Once again, Bellotti creates a cohesive, well-balanced collection by making simple yet sophisticated changes to timeless ensembles that we all know and love.
Of course, the entire BALLY experience wouldn’t be complete without the bespoke soundtrack curated by the talented Swiss recording artist Aisha Devi. In alignment with the Dadaist spirit of the collection, the show’s soundtrack captivated the audience. As Devi explained, “I designed this soundtrack with the intention of generating an alternate state of consciousness and of activating the Dadaist electrical imagination.”
In a fashion world dominated by runway gimmicks and the pursuit of virality, the need for “basic” clothes might not be an immediate point. Yet, in this collection, Bellotti offers an unconscious yet clear answer through Bally’s exquisite craftsmanship. It’s about making subtle, sophisticated adjustments to silhouettes, lines, and details that bring a fresh sense of innovation. Bellotti continues to demonstrate intentional design, striking a balance between the delicate and the bold.
