Kris Van Assche presents the Berluti Summer 2020 collection at Jardin du Luxembourg in Paris. Founded in 1895 by Alessandro Berluti, Berluti is a storied brand with a rich history in traditional menswear and luxury leather goods. When creative director Kris Van Assche was appointed to lead the brand in 2017, something exciting was sure to take place. What transpired was a seamless blending of new world imagination with old world mystique. Assche is creating a language that preserves the tradition and craft while injecting novelty in a luxurious way. This collection continued the evolution of the brand. For the Summer 2020 Men’s & Women’s collection, slick sartorial tailoring is fitted over colorful and graphic shirts – all rooted by the protagonist of the brand, the formal shoe.
As it appears in a new campaign photographed by Alasdair McLellan, it feels like it should be addressed first. The color gradient patina on wing tips and loafers from the first collection were immediately well received by critics and consumers alike, but when Assche revealed his latest vision of the Brutalist style Oxford with a steel cap on an angular toe box, we simply fell over. As the Brutalist architects did in the 60s by mending the utilitarian formalities of mid-century modernism with ornate extravagance from bourgeois 1920s and 30s, the shoe preserves the past while offering something new and exciting for the present. Anchoring the collection, this idea behind the shoe transcends into the ready-to-wear collection with patinaed leather suits, bright colors, signature zips on extended pant cuffs, ostrich feathers, and mohair lends to the seamless mixing between traditional luxury and contemporary appeal. See the full collection below. Images courtesy of Berluti.