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Breaking New Ground: Louis Vuitton Escale Timepiece in Enamel

December 17, 2024

Louis Vuitton Escale Platinum Guilloche and Grand Feu Enamel Dial

Louis Vuitton unveils its latest masterpiece in broad strokes of platinum and grand feu enamel: a limited edition of 50 Escale timepieces featuring a hypnotic blue dial that artfully transcends centuries-old guilloché work with modern laser precision.

The creation begins with a solid gold disc, transformed by master craftsmen using traditional rose engine turning methods dating to the 18th century. Their expertise produces an intricate guilloché pattern that ripples outward from the dial's center, laying the foundation for the masterwork to follow.

The enameling process reveals the true artistry. Master enamellers blend glass powder pigments to achieve a deep blue hue that seems to capture light within its depths. Using both champlevé and flinqué techniques, they apply the enamel with methodical precision. The dial undergoes multiple firings at temperatures exceeding 800°C, permanently fusing the enamel with its gold base. On the reverse, a pale counter-enamel bears the inscription: Guilloché Main, Émail Grand Feu, an intimate message from artisan to watchmaker.

A master artisan applies finishing touches to the brilliant blue grand feu enamel dial. (Image: Courtesy of Louis Vuitton)

While the enameling process honors tradition, Louis Vuitton's artisans have achieved what many considered impossible: precision-cut perforations through fired enamel. Using advanced laser technology, they create secure mounting points for the white gold hour markers; a technical breakthrough that elevates this timepiece above traditional printed indices.

The 39mm platinum case, protected by sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating and water-resistant to 50 meters, houses the self-winding LFT023 caliber, developed by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton in partnership with Le Cercle des Horlogers. This chronometer-certified movement features a 22-carat rose gold micro-rotor and 50-hour power reserve, meeting the Geneva Observatory's exacting standards with accuracy within -4/+6 seconds per day.

Lance-shaped hour and minute hands in 18-carat white gold sweep across the dial, while a titanium seconds hand, chosen for its lightweight properties, ensures optimal power distribution. The case's signature "rivet" lugs echo the corners of Louis Vuitton's historic trunks, securing a blue calfskin strap lined with black leather.

Detail of the platinum case with signature trunk-inspired rivet lugs and blue calfskin strap. (Image: Courtesy of Louis Vuitton)

In limiting this Escale to 50 pieces, Louis Vuitton has created a gallery of artisanal excellence that fits on the wrist. The deep blue enamel dial, with its hand-executed guilloché pattern and innovative riveted markers, sets a new standard for what's possible when traditional crafts meet modern watchmaking.