In a mesmerizing show of light and shadow, Christopher Esber's Spring-Summer 2025 collection graced the runway at Paris Fashion Week. Fresh from his ANDAM prize win, the Australian designer presented a collection that was a celebration of the female form by way of sartorial dichotomies.
Whispers of the Past, Echoes of the Future
Esber's collection reimagined bygone eras through ethereal nostalgia; one foot in the past and one remarkably in the contemporary present day. The designer ingeniously wove together influences from various decades, creating a tapestry of time. From 1950s undergarments to 1980s polka dots, each piece communicated its meticulous research and inspired recreation.
Tactile Textures
With fabrics that begged to be touched, delicate lace panels caressed the body, while streams of silk vapor chiffon formed into ethereal silhouettes. The introduction of shibori punk added an unexpected edge, illustrating Esber's knack for balancing the delicate with the daring.
Volumes of Intrigue
Perhaps the most striking aspect of the collection was Esber's play with volume. Billowing silhouettes in fine white muslin and silk created a narrative of movement and mystery, only to be expertly reined in through precise pin-tucking and lacing. This dance between freedom and control was a recurring theme, embodying our multifaceted modernity.
The Esber Signature Evolves
While staying true to his brand's DNA of "relaxed glamour," Esber pushed boundaries this season. His signature resin detailing made a subtle appearance, adding a glossy edge to otherwise matte surfaces. The interplay of draping with strict tailoring in black and stone suiting showcased the designer's evolving mastery of form.
A Palette of Contrasts
The color story oscillated between airy, cloudy whites and creams to stark blacks, creating a visual narrative of day transitioning into night. This duality was further emphasized in pieces like the black linen tailoring – at once demure and mysteriously alluring.
Among the collection's highlights was a matrix-patterned dress with a high neckline and sinuous skirt, perfectly embodying the collection's theme of controlled fluidity. The '70s-meets-'90s anoraks with double pleating were a refreshing take on outerwear, proving Esber's ability to make even the practical feel luxurious.
As the last model exited the runway, Christopher Esber had presented a collection filled with vision. A vision of a woman who is both ethereal and grounded, classic and contemporary, controlled and free - past and present. In a fashion landscape often criticized for its excess, Esber's Spring-Summer 2025 collection was a breath of fresh air: light, unfettered, and undeniably chic.
