Text by Mark Benjamin
Comme des Garçons Homme Plus has once again solidified its reputation for youthful rebellion with its Spring Summer 2025 show, presenting a mesmerizing kaleidoscope of innovation. The collection's materiality is a focal point, with tulle draping and wrapping outerwear in unexpected ways. Double and single-breasted coats, both sleeved and sleeveless, are styled with only the first few buttons fastened, creating a flared, eccentric silhouette.
The brand's signature dots, while present, are subtly concealed beneath sheer tulle that forms a semi-transparent shell throughout the collection. This is punctuated by occasional bow tie detailing, adding a playful touch to the avant-garde designs.
The show's most eye-catching elements are undoubtedly the kaleidoscopic hair clips that form elaborate headpieces on every model. These multicolored accessories serve as a unifying element across the diverse looks, from tailored suits to flowing, patterned ensembles.
Paisleys and brocade elevate the youthful brand to new levels of sophistication, while heavily deconstructed suiting features zips, lace, and tulle emerging from unexpected seams. The collection also incorporates Elizabethan era ruffles, not only as lapels and adornments but also as whimsical skirts on lace-up derbies.
Patterns play a significant role, with a striking look featuring a coat that combines green polka dots red and grey dots all layered under sheer black tulle. This complex interplay of patterns and textures is a testament to the brand's mastery of material manipulation.
Footwear ranges from chunky platform shoes in bright pink to more subdued black leather options, all paired with black socks for a cohesive look.
A notable piece in the collection references the traditional Inverness coat, reimagined as a classic CDG suit.
Timely and trendsetting, the CDG Homme Plus SS25 collection evokes the senses with its striking contrasts and delicate use of materials. It successfully bridges the gap between youth culture and high fashion, offering a fresh and exciting vision for the future of menswear. This collection is a win for youth culture, pushing boundaries while maintaining the brand's iconic aesthetic.
[Runway images courtesy of Comme des Garçons Homme Plus and Patricia Buren and Kotaro Iizuka]