Courrèges unveiled its Spring-Summer 2025 collection, orchestrating a symphony of shape and movement inspired by the mathematical concept of the Möbius band. Creative Director Nicolas Di Felice masterfully crafted an "infinite loop" of designs, distilling six decades of Courrèges legacy into a contemporary narrative of repetition and reduction.
The collection's genesis lies in a 1962 Haute Couture cape, from which Di Felice sculpted an evolving timeline of silhouettes. This architectural approach gave birth to a seamless progression of forms, from voluminous leather cocoons to streamlined neoprene-bonded tailoring, then to hybrid flous and deconstructed jerseys that evoked the fluid motion of fabric underwater.
A maritime theme underpinned the collection, manifesting in feathered ear cuffs, speckled prints, and the latest iteration of the Holy Bag, all evoking the ethereal presence of jellyfish. Delicate boning on silk slip-dresses mimicked oceanic ripples, while deep-blue chiffon gowns billowed like sails in a nocturnal breeze.
The show's setting, conceived by Di Felice and scenography director Rémy Brière in collaboration with Finnish artist duo Grönlund-Nisunen, featured a monumental 'Ocean Drum' at its heart. This installation recreated the sound of waves, interweaving white noise with a dissonant soundtrack that sampled a legendary rave anthem, creating what Di Felice described in the press notes as a "twisted mantra of a symphonic meditation."
Footwear pushed the boundaries of form and function, with variations of oblique-cut scuba heels propelling the silhouettes forward. These avant-garde shoes not only complemented the collection's futuristic aesthetic but also emphasized the brand's commitment to innovative design.
As the models circled the expansive white space, the collection revealed itself as a meticulously crafted exploration of garment anatomy. Each wave of designs exposed new aspects of construction, celebrating the interplay between fabric and form, and ultimately liberating the expression of the body.
The Courrèges Spring-Summer 2025 collection stands as a testament to the brand's enduring legacy of innovation and its ability to remain relevant in an ever-evolving fashion landscape. By revisiting and reinterpreting its rich history, Courrèges has once again positioned itself at the vanguard of contemporary design, offering a vision of the future that is both familiar and excitingly new.
