Glenn Martens Transforms Diesel FW25 Runway Into Street Art Canvas, Blending High Fashion With Urban Expression
The philosopher Walter Benjamin once said that in the Middle Ages, art was not seen as an individual creation but as a collective, anonymous expression—deeply rooted in community and tradition. The Diesel FW25 runway show is, in every sense, a total and collective work of art, a bold celebration of street culture where Glenn Martens loses himself and finds himself again in the details.
Six miles of white canvas were sent to art schools and street art groups across the world, to be graffitied by over 7,000 artists who took part in the Diesel Global Street Art Contest. From there, it made its way to Milan, covering the runway and transforming it into a walkable canvas—an immersive, post-apocalyptic installation dominated by one of the gigantic blow-up dolls from the SS23 set, curated by Studio Dennis Vanderbroeck.
Set to a soundtrack that distorts Bach's orchestral works into a ringtone—or better yet, a chiptune straight out of a 2000s video game—models take to the runway with uncanny, clownish makeup: spray-painted smiley-like grins and cyborg contact lenses, now a signature of Glenn Martens' beauty aesthetic.
The first looks nod to quiet luxury and Chanel, so much so that the creative director himself describes the show's concept as: "Coco Chanel goes to Balmoral and gets drunk on sherry with the Queen."
Pied de poule, tweed, and mélange textures created in denim dominate a large part of the collection, but they are not the only ones showcasing Diesel's mastery of textile manipulation. The brand also presents distressed froissé, bouclé, and trompe-l'œil techniques. One of the most unique pieces is a molded rubber "cable-knit" sweater, crafted to resemble human skin.
Artistic experimentation is also reflected in the construction of the garments: ultra-padded hooded jackets, bouncy ruffled knits, and a denim peplum that looks like the top of a pair of jeans, worn over destroyed denim jacquard hot pants.
Silhouettes push to extremes: ultra-high-waisted shorts revealing jacquard panties and impossibly low jeans create the same peekaboo effect, with a bumster cut highlighted by the completely bare backs of the final looks—also a nod to the trompe-l'œil effects typical of Y/Project.
When it comes to accessories, the iconic Double D bag gets a bouclé makeover, while two new statement bags make their debut: the slouchy Flag-D and the sleek, oval-shaped Load D. The fabric treatments extend to footwear as well, giving rise to houndstooth slippers and bouclé kitten-heel boots.
Beyond the FW25 collection's runway setting, the collaboration with graffiti artists has also resulted in an exclusive Street Art capsule collection, featuring pieces personally customized by the artists themselves—a raw fusion of street and high fashion.
The front row was a reflection of the culture Diesel champions, packed with street-connected personalities: Italian rap stars like Anna Pepe and Tony Effe, alongside international names such as Charlotte de Witte.
This fashion show was much more than just a runway—it was a full-scale art performance and a way to connect and give voice to both emerging and established graffiti artists, celebrating the street art community and Diesel's core values: the subversion of the everyday, democracy, and fun.
