Diesel spring summer 2023

September 27, 2022

Glenn Martens presents the Diesel spring summer 2023 collection as part of Milan Fashion Week.

The Diesel Democracy

The Diesel democracy: denim, utility, pop, and play, debuting in front of an audience of nearly 5,000. It’s a show that breaks a Guinness World Record: the world’s largest ever inflatable sculpture is the runway's heart. Experimentation for everybody, the inclusive energy; this 21st century Diesel reboot has only just begun.

I wanted to open Diesel up to the public, for people who may never have been to a fashion show before. They deserve a spectacle, so we’ve broken the record for the biggest inflatable sculpture in the world. It’s what I believe about the fashion and the state of mind - everybody can be part of Diesel.

Glenn Martens, creative director of Diesel


Collection notes

Democratic fashion is everything, with experimentation and subversion every single day. Denim devoré is created by weaving denim onto a transparent base, like the devoré corset waist of low-slung denim pants. The effect is also created with denim knits, while part-solarised denim is like it’s been left out in years of the hot summer sun.

Denim is roughly embroidered with a layer of tulle that’s then torn, while distressed denim is held by stitching lines and a sheer lining to bring control to the destruction. There’s also denim bonded with a layer of cotton and then acid-washed, revealing the denim. Scans of distressed denim have been taken to create second-skin trompe-l’oeil prints, while many pieces throughout the collection are trimmed with raw denim for pure Diesel energy.

Utility pants with supersized pockets are solarised for attitude, satin cargo pants are future perfect, and wide utility belts hold little fluid tops. Nylon utility jackets and flying pants have cotton layers that are cut away; dresses and pants are made from organza layers, cut open; double-layer printed T-shirts have smiley holes cut into the top layer to reveal the print beneath.

Acid floral slip dresses are trimmed with lace, as are tank minidresses with frills at the neck and arm. Vivid knits are coated and cracked open, like metallic pop dresses or sleeveless vests fastened by hook-and-eye. Plasticized denim is waterproofed like jelly, creases left intentionally undyed, and metallic printed coats are like a city reflected in chrome.

Diesel Library

Bonded leather jackets are cut with raw edges. Diesel Library denim pieces are bonded and encased in layers of rough-cut denim. Artisanal denim pieces are cut and distressed as if the denim is turning into fur; an artisanal coat is made entirely from over 15,000 distressed and brushed Diesel labels.

Slip-on denim heels have utility pockets to make going out easy. Strappy sandals have sporty soles, while patent boots are finished with a metallic D. Men’s flip-flops are molded, while Prototype sneakers are cut open for summer. 1DR bags are medium or micro, while D-vina bags are tricked out with sparkling charms or reimagined with a molded D.

This season’s Diesel Eyewear collection is a special collaboration with EssilorLuxottica, launching exclusively through Diesel networks in February 2023. Each style, from aviator to wraparound, has color edging and metallic temples finishing on a perfect D. One limited edition model has been exclusively developed for Diesel Runway. Only 55 units will be immediately available through preorder on, with delivery in November 2022.

Show facts