Maria Grazia Chirui presents the DIOR Haute Couture spring summer 2023 collection in Paris.
The craft of thought
For Maria Grazia Chiuri, each haute couture defile is an opportunity to explore the complex thought processes connected to a garment constructed for a body. The couture garment is a body-garment. A body-home. A body-manifesto.
This Dior spring-summer 2023 collection is guided by Joséphine Baker, the African-American singer, and dancer who left the United States in the mid-1920s for the cosmopolitan cit of Paris, a dream destination for artists, writers, and fashion designers.
A glamorous icon, she embodies the modernity of those years. the transgressions of stereotypes and prejudices, and the mixing of cultures and shared experiences notably animated the vibrant world o cabaret. Having acquired French citizenship. she was acclaimed by post-war Europe and performed at the Strand Theatre and Carnedit Hall, New York, dressed in French fashion, such as the Dior creations that crowned her charisma and success.
The photographs of Josephine Baker, whose energy is emphasized by their black-and-white tonality, compose a form of sartorial biography (capturing her as a dancer, entertainer, member of the French Resistance, civil rights activist for the African-Americans humanist, and universal benefactress), the exemplary story of a pioneer, a role-model. The cozy, intimate dressing room that precedes her entrance on stage is evoked by a series of coats reminiscent of the bathrobe, which conceals and protects.
Made of light velvet, crumpled and dynamic, or quilted, they open onto pieces of light satin underwear that are transformed into protagonists themselves, their powdered hues and black providing a contemporary interpretation of 1950s classics.
The clothes glide over the body and caress it. A syncopated rhythm breathes vitality into the fabric in silk, in velvet, often with a creased effect. The embroidery is delicate. Tiny silver studs and sequins occupy the space and absorb the runway lights to reflect them onto the audience. Fringes in shades of silver and gold accompany and magnify the choreography of the movements sketched by the body. The suits and coats pay tribute to the masculine fabrics dear to Monsieur Dior. The length, consistently above the ankle, reveals shoes with heels and imposing soles.
The show’s staging by African-American artist Mickalene Thomas celebrates black and mixed-race women like Joséphine Baker, who evolved into powerful figureheads by breaking racial barriers and going against the grain. She unveils the deep meaning of this collection and shakes up the vision of haute couture, the essence of fashion that can become a radical gesture of awareness of its value and strength.