Text by Star Burleigh
Kim Jones brings a celebration of playful elegance and craft to the DIOR Men’s Spring Summer 2025 collection. By collaborating with South African ceramicist Hylton Nel this collection brilliantly showcased the value of traditional artisanal skills in contemporary design. Hylton’s waggish and subversive designs imbued this season with character and life.
As guests arrived they were greeted by oversized cats throughout the catwalk which were inspired by Hylton’s work that helped create a whimsical art gallery in which fashion and ceramics interlaced. The oversized cats (and one dog) created a surreal backdrop that complemented the animated and fun energy seen in this collection.
The collection opened with an all studded look with motifs of Hylton’s work that set the tone for what Kim Jones envisioned this season. These embellishments transformed simple fabrics into standout pieces by adding visual composition and texture. Hylton’s work appeared throughout many of the knits, silks, and accessories that bridged the world of Jones and Hylton into one.
The silks and satins added a touch of fluidity and charm that enhanced the cheerful aesthetic, while the crocheted and knitted pieces showcased the elaborate craftsmanship behind each garment.
Jones chose hues that were a mix of earth and vibrant tones that evokes emotions of light-heartedness and poise. The vibrant yellows, pinks, and blues embodied the playful spirit of Hylton’s art, while the deeper greens, browns, and reds created a balance of refinement and artistic quality that sets Dior apart.
Accessories were imaginative, with bags inspired by a painter’s box paying homage to Hylton, playful cartoon-like pins and brooches, knitted and ceramic-like bag charms, cartoon printed socks, and ceramic-like sunglasses. These small details set this collection apart from the last few seasons that felt more serious and are a reminder that fashion can be profound and witty.
Jones incorporated materials designed to mimic Hylton’s ceramic structures not only on the set-design and looks but also in the models' hairstyles. Models walked down the catwalk with slicked-back hair styled to resemble the glass-like surface formed during the firing process of glazed ceramics. But perhaps one of the most exciting and surprising elements was the scarf collar motif, inspired by archival collar styles. This motif was created in collaboration with artisan sculptor Blanka Flavin, who applied two different formulas to the cotton poplin collars to achieve a natural movement and mimic the effects of ceramics.
Every season, Jones and Victoire de Castellane collaborate on one high jewelry piece. This season together they unveiled a marvellous brooch featuring a central aquamarine stone, pink and yellow sapphires with diamond stripes on one side, and with a waterfall of blue sapphire gradations on the other. The interplay of colours creates a lively and energetic contrast. The brooch's ribbon, encircling the aquamarine, illustrates movement, with diamond-paved birds holding the ribbon and flying towards the center stone. The brooch’s daring shape and exceptional craftsmanship translate the lightness and fluidity of couture ribbons, making each detail contribute to its elegance and beauty.
The guest list was exciting and diverse; celebrities such as Karlie Kloss, Robert Pattinson, Bad Bunny, Thomas Doherty, Demi Moore, Maluma, Diplo, Brooklyn Beckham, Eunwoo Cha, Tomorrow X Together, and Miss Fame were seen in the front row.
Jones’ Spring Summer 2025 collection challenges traditional notions, demonstrating the power of fashion as artistic expression. The collaboration between Jones and Hylton pushes fashion's boundaries, inspiring designers to explore new creative paths and draw from other artistic disciplines.
[Collages courtesy of Kevin Pineda]