By Jesse Scott
Last season, I arrived at the Doublet event to find a stress release ball cheekily emblazoned with 'Someone’s Heart' on my seat. The gift was a precursor to a beautifully chaotic show, set to driving techno music, that was daring, irreverent, and delightfully raunchy.
This season I was welcomed to the venue in an entirely different way, by being offered an omise (Japanese omelet) to be enjoyed in the calm environment of Paris's Paysan Urbain. Reviewing the show notes, I discovered that the collection was called 'Itdakimasu,' a Japanese phrase expressing gratitude before a meal. Designer Masayuki Ino was inspired by the circle of life, presenting this show as homage to nature, food that sustains us, and people who prepare it. Yet this was not a moment for quiet reflection. While Ino always has a powerful message to share, he has a special talent for doing so through a lens that engages both entertainingly and thoughtfully. Doublet has not lost any of its signature swagger, and the star-studded guest list enjoyed a high-octane spectacle that was as theatrically fun as it was thought-provoking.
Got Milk?
Ino's sartorial reflections on life and food were far from metaphorical. Garden met farmyard in one model's appearance down the grass runway wearing a sweater pulled up over her head to imitate a cow (Look 32). She carried a carton of milk with Japanese markings as well. Another model sported an "I Love Egg" t-shirt while carrying two bags printed like Heinz Ketchup and Mustard containers (Look 26).
Nature, and tongue-in-cheek commentaries on how our species has treated it, was evident throughout. One look saw a black mesh top paired with an asymmetrical skirt featuring the words: 'Doublet Farmer, All Purpose Fabricizer, Use on Jackets, Trousers, Ski' presumably referring to fabric for outdoor use rather than literal farming products (Look 36). Finally, in a reference to ocean pollution, a model had three-dimensional fish, a plastic bag, and a crushed water bottle woven into loops of a knit sweater (Look 39).
Doublet Leads by Example
The show was not just a call to action but also demonstrated what that action can manifest as. Ino provided whimsy through eggshell cartons and an egg-shaped hat; he also debuted a new material made from discarded eggshells and repurposed fishing nets and leather from the port of Kochi were used on the runway, with a collaboration with New York's Sky High Farm incorporating mud-based dyes.
The Balance Between Conceptual and Commercial
Conceptual pieces are meant for their thought-provoking purpose rather than timeless appeal only. An elegant brown trench coat and oversized gray suit were both designed to evoke specific moments while maintaining a timeless sensibility (Looks 13, 15, 23). A sea foam green double-breasted suit (a unicorn in the current world of men’s fashion), is perfect for summers on the Mediterranean and was my personal favorite piece (Look 37). Meanwhile, accessories such as fish-head shaped bags offer an accessible and playful way for people to sartorially express their values.
Doublet Spring/Summer 2026 inspired, at times, confusion. For example, how could the model whose head was fully enveloped in an overripe banana suit see? (Look 8) However, it also inspired a newfound appreciation of our global food system. As the star-studded guest list filed out of the Paysan Urbains, no one seemed unmoved or indifferent.
