Dries Van Noten AW25: The Beauty In-Between

Julian Klausner's Debut Ignites A Daring Evolution Of Dries Van Noten Codes for AW25, Balancing Heritage And Subversion With Poetic Precision

By Louise Daniel

Known for embracing the unconventional in a romantic and endearing way, Dries Van Noten has cultivated a legacy that both defines and evolves with the times. This season, "Beyond the Historical Horizon" marks a pivotal moment for the house, as the Dries Van Noten Studio, guided by Julian Klausner, presents a collection that serves as both an homage and a prelude—an artistic premonition of Julian Klausner's highly anticipated vision for the brand.

From the moment the first look appeared, the cinematic allure of the collection was undeniable. The mood was sculpted not only by the clothes but by the lens of Willy Vanderperre, whose ability to capture dreamlike states heightened the collection's timeless yet rebellious spirit. Drawing from the subversive energy of William S. Burroughs' novel "The Wild Boys" and inspired by Bertrand Mandico's 2017 film of the same name, FW25 exists in a realm untethered by time, where sartorial codes are continuously disrupted and reassembled.

Dries Van Noten's language of contrast takes center stage—structured yet relaxed, aristocratic yet rakish, rustic yet decadent. The result is a collection that thrives in the beauty of the in-between, where tradition meets transformation with precise intent.

This season, the Dries Van Noten man is a poetic drifter, a stylish rebel navigating the space between refinement and disorder. The youthful, rakish gang of Antwerp serves as the emotional heartbeat of the collection, channeling a romantic and almost theatrical take on masculinity. Looks felt cinematic yet instinctive, evoking an attitude that exists beyond a specific time period. The oversized caban in heavy felted wool paired with a collarless white shirt, fresh flower pin, and leather gloves combined classic elegance with a sense of rawness.

The burgundy satin duchesse caban with exaggerated Neapolitan sleeves reimagined historical tailoring in modern form, while structured trench coats featured sailor-style back flaps, adding a sense of uniformed precision. The collection also introduced intriguing contrasts, like a pinstripe wool caban paired with shorts and a striking red lace detail at the waist, or an oversized coat in needle-punched velour jersey layered over a top woven with plastified loose threads, merging artistry with raw authenticity. These choices reinforced the collection's overarching theme—elegance that thrives in contradiction.

Dries Van Noten has always been a master of contradiction, and this season continues that tradition by blurring the lines between rigid tailoring and fluid movement. Masculine archetypes are subverted through an exploration of silhouettes that remain structured yet relaxed. Neapolitan tailoring meets subversion, as classic suits are reconstructed with voluminous sleeves, detachable embroidered cuffs, and elongated proportions. Sailor-style trousers with fold-down flaps offer structured uniformity yet are paired with delicate lavallière bows and softened poplin shirts, transforming the expected codes of masculinity into something more expressive.

The play between structured outerwear and effortless layering keeps the collection rooted in classicism while simultaneously pushing it toward something entirely new. Trench coats in duchesse satin with historical puffed sleeves, traditional hunting wool, and overdyed printed canvas coats reveal intricate details, proving that within the space of in-between, a new kind of beauty is found.

The collection's duality of texture and setting was reinforced through both fabric choices and visual storytelling. Shot in both industrial exteriors and intimate interior portraits, the campaign and show presentation gave signature codes a subtly cinematic evolution.

Outerwear stood out as a key highlight, with elongated tweed peacoats, duchesse satin trenches, and printed leather biker jackets forming the backbone of the collection. Traditional hunting fabrics revealed hidden depths through vivid violet and amber fil coupé linings, adding a quiet richness to the pieces. Techniques such as extra-long multicolor intarsia knits, gradient paillettes, and airbrushed thistle motifs created an intricate balance between raw and refined textures.

Accessories also played into this story of contrasts, reinforcing Dries Van Noten's ability to elevate everyday elements into something poetic. Flower brooches, metal-tipped laces tied at the waist, and leather gloves offered an air of aristocratic decadence, while biker boots and sleek patent derbies grounded each look with an edge of practicality. The interplay of these details ensured that while the collection embraced a theatrical essence, it never strayed from the wearable, reinforcing Van Noten's belief that clothes should not just be admired but lived in.

If this collection serves as a prelude to Julian Klausner's vision for Dries Van Noten, then it is one that honors the past while fearlessly embracing the unknown. There is a sleekness to this new era of Dries, yet it does not sacrifice its core DNA of layered storytelling and expressive subcultures. The Dries Van Noten man remains defined by his contradictions—elegant yet undone, rebellious yet refined.

This season, the clothes feel like fragments of a story yet to be fully written—a rakish gang wandering Antwerp, their wardrobes composed of historical echoes and contemporary influences, seamlessly woven together. The collection embraces a subcultural relevance that remains distinct, proving that Dries Van Noten continues to be a label for those who exist between worlds, between past and future, between structure and fluidity.

The beauty of Dries Van Noten Fall-Winter 2025 lies in its refusal to be defined by a singular moment. Instead, it exists in the liminal space between elegance and disruption, tradition and reinvention—a collection that, like the best of Dries, lingers in the imagination long after the final look leaves the runway.

Photography courtesy of Dries Van Noten/Willy Vanderperre