Dries Van Noten presents the fall winter 2023 collection in Paris.
A study of the natural world.
Discovering beauty in the surreal strangeness of nature. Dries Van Noten menswear autumn/winter 23/24 journeys from motifs of flora and fauna to the freedom and self- expression of rave culture, alongside dynamic new tailoring silhouettes.
Earthy tones, rawness of fabrics such as jute and alpaca and fine knits in flesh tones evolve from a book about the groundbreaking work of German naturalist and geographer Alexander von Humboldt and his visionary explorations of the natural world in the 1800s. Imagery inspired by drawings in the library of Meise Botanic Garden in Belgium informs the vivid renderings of tiger lilies unfurling, snakes coiling and eagles in flight across shirting, knitwear and bomber jackets.
The skill of human artistry is celebrated in meticulous screen printing techniques; suits and coats with abstract pattern wending across the body. Materials and fabrications weathered by the elements; washed silks, overdyed fabrics and textured knitwear evoking the fragility of lace. Pastel tones dulled. Furry clogs lend texture, solid boots suggest exploration. Preciousness in embroidery and chainwork.
A reinvigoration of tailoring and silhouette; wide-shouldered jackets with narrow waists. Trousers manipulate proportions, flowing in shape but sharply high-waisted. Cabans are abbreviated, with exaggerated lapels—coats with draped shoulders and soft-fit raglan sleeves.
The energy and togetherness of rave culture. Ribbons flowing from cargo pants, multi-pocketed outerwear bristling with straps, undulating psychedelic pattern and padded, oversized puffa jackets.
Joining in with the telling of this story are experimental Belgian musicians Lander & Adriaan, who perform a unique composition for the show, showcasing their own potent mix of sophisti-rave which fuses 90s underground dance with classic jazz.
Dries Van Noten menswear pays homage to the richness of the natural environment and our indelible connection to it and each other.