In a spectacular FW25 show that balances the past with the future, Julian Klausner's debut drives Dries Van Noten in the direction of a lasting legacy.
The Palais Garnier is Paris' gem. Anchoring the bustling 9th arrondissement, its stony, gargoyle-protected exterior hides a window into the world of opera. Marble staircases loop to gilded hallways with intricate moldings, twinkling chandeliers, and ceiling paintings that rival those of Versailles. It is within these storied walls that Julian Klausner found inspiration for his debut collection for Dries Van Noten, after being promoted to creative director by Van Noten himself.
Klausner worked closely with Van Noten before his departure in 2024, signaling the maison's desire for continuity while Van Noten sealed his tenure with a menswear show no one will forget. Members of the audience plucked feathery pieces off a silver-foiled runway to take home and frame in honor of the illustrious, un-matched career of one of the last-standing members of the Antwerp Six. The pressure was on for Van Noten's successor; still, Klausner's collection sings.
"Behind The Curtain" begins with a reinterpretation of wardrobe shapes. The enlarged collar of a black floor-length coat is whip-stitched with a blanc fringe of shoe-laces. It's an artistic, and perhaps, nostalgic choice by Klausner, seen again in necklaces, earrings, hand-lace, and ankle ties "to give the impression of carrying a beloved object."
The playful yet refined techniques in Klausner’s pieces nod to the craftsmanship behind each design, showcased in a decadent array of crystal-topped embroidery and a vibrant cascade of tassels that tie together the final looks in this jewel-box of a collection. The talented team behind the patterns and embroidery includes Linda Vercauteren, Hitomi Muramatsu, Sukki Ho, Lydie Renault, Sophie De Vos, and Annette Rieger.
Amethyst and emerald-toned silks entertain the unseriousness of polka dot prints patchworked with matelassé, fluttering in the cascades of asymmetrical layers. Rich embellishments made from lush velvet and rug jacquards counter demure shades of grey, navy, and black, while animal furs mesh with prim ballet pinks. A Mary-Jane strapped round toe is stilted on a high heel made of stacked cuoio, while staunch blazers with their lapels tossed match trousers stitched with sequins. Van Noten once said he prefers his colors, prints, and embroideries to clash, and to that, Klausner raises his glass with an aria all his own.
Dries Van Noten AW25 Key Looks
