New Beginnings, Legacy, and Menswear
By Alice Sourdès
Following the turnarounds at the head of major fashion houses, the Spring/Summer 2026 season was highly anticipated by all aficionados and observers. Taking center stage is Julian Klausner, the new creative director of Dries Van Noten, after the exit of the founder last summer. The eponymous former head of the brand, part of the Antwerp Six, had led Dries Van Noten for three decades and had more than one hundred shows under his belt. His nomination was nothing out of the blue. Julian Klausner had worked with Dries on the womenswear collections since 2018. While the new creative director has always been vocal about his love for womenswear, his first menswear collection cemented its status as a must-watch and must-wear brand in Paris' men's wear calendar.
The debut gathered friends of the house, among whom can be found TikTok sensation and fashion styling influencer Wisdom Kaye or even music sensation Keshi, along with other fashion aficionados in a bare building hall located in the 12th arrondissement of Paris. Creative director Julian Klausner indulges in warm memories of 'a perfect summer day.' With Lou Reed's discography blasting through the wide concrete room, quiet extravagance meets spontaneity, formal closet meets casual will to get dressed up.
Klausner revisits essentials. From evening wear to sporty, casual wardrobe, the collection is a mash-up of evening coats, shorts, sneakers, sarongs, pareos, and shirts. Textures, patterns, and colors are ruling the runway. Bold colors, eye-catching prints, and sparkling embroidery were mixed, matched, and mismatched playfully. A one-of-a-kind illustration of the designer’s take on chic, youthful tailoring with romantic theatrics in daily fashion looks. On the runway, Klausner revisits basics from everyday clothing. The main accessories that stand out include cummerbunds (Look 57), paired with looser pants, sarongs, and shorts of all lengths. The signature Dries Van Noten sneakers also made an appearance, styled with tone-on-tone socks to complete the looks.
A New Chapter
The collection is a brilliant response to the alleged issue of identity at heritage brands. It's a celebration of dressing up, experimenting with textures and colors, and following unwritten rules of matching every piece of clothing without fear of missing out. With this menswear debut, Klausner embodies the heritage of the Dries man and its cult-like following, embracing a reboot while writing a new page in the era for Dries Van Noten brand.