Dries Van Noten Women’s Spring-Summer 2025: A Dazzling Start to the Post-Founder Era

In the wake of Dries Van Noten's farewell to the runway, the fashion world held its breath for the Spring-Summer 2025 collection. As models weaved through the raw, industrial space of a derelict building in Paris' 9th arrondissement, it became clear that the brand's in-house design team had struck a delicate balance between honoring Van Noten's legacy and charting a course for the future.

True to the brand's DNA, the collection continued to explore print mixing. From pastel florals to earthy paisleys and vibrant brushstrokes, each look was a carefully orchestrated clash of patterns. The opening look: a snake print overcoat set the tone for a collection that reveled in the versatility of prints, with each ensemble more daring than the last.

The collection played with proportions in intriguing ways. Suiting featured exaggerated shoulders paired with cinched waists, creating a strong, feminine silhouette. This juxtaposition of volume continued throughout, with tiny hotpants (playing into this season's leg-forward trend) and flowing slip dresses sharing the runway in perfect harmony.

Jacquard fabrics were transformed through innovative techniques, appearing crushed or crinkled to alter perceptions of light and texture. Embellishments added depth and dimension, with spherical studs and matte sequins catching the light as models moved. The interplay of shimmering satin and delicate lace against laser-treated denim and masculine pinstripes created a rich textural landscape.

Eagle-eyed fashion historians might have spotted references to Van Noten's Fall 1997, with its jewel tones and fusion of Eastern and Western dress codes. This archival nod felt both nostalgic and forward-looking, bridging the gap between the brand's past and its future.

While much of the collection felt comfortingly familiar to longtime fans, there were subtle shifts that hinted at evolution. Lingerie-inspired pieces, a notable seasonal trend, added a fresh sensuality to the brand's typically modest aesthetic. For instance, a marigold lace bandeau peeking out from under a khaki blouson jacket exemplified this new direction.

The palette was a journey in itself, transitioning from autumnal khakis and chocolates to vibrant pinks and oranges, before concluding with sophisticated greys and blacks. This color progression created a visual narrative that kept the audience engaged from start to finish.

As the design team took their bow, Dries Van Noten himself applauded from the front row, a poignant moment that symbolized the passing of the torch. This collection proved that while the founder may have stepped back, his spirit continues to infuse every fiber of the brand.

The Spring-Summer 2025 collection is a testament to the enduring appeal of Dries Van Noten's design philosophy. It offers longtime devotees plenty to love while opening the door to a new generation of fashion enthusiasts. As the industry looks to the future, it's clear that the house of Dries Van Noten is in capable hands, ready to write its next chapter with respect for the past and excitement for what lies ahead.