Elie Saab FW25: In the Alpenglow

The Elie Saab FW25 Ready-to-Wear collection dazzles with alpine luxury and après-ski glamour.

By Jesse Scott

Elie Saab transported guests into an alpine fairy tale with a spectacular FW25 collection that epitomized the glamour of the world's most exclusive ski resorts - both on and off the piste. The spirit of Courchevel and Saint Moritz animated Palais de Tokyo in an exuberant celebration of extravagance; sumptuous furs, dreamy gowns, and impeccably tailored jackets danced under the spotlight at one of the season's most highly anticipated shows.

This was fashion in its purest and most joyful form, with sleek silhouettes and a sharply curated colour palette defining pieces made from only the most luxurious materials. It was also distinctly of the moment. Saab has his finger on the pulse of the young, bold, and beautiful. With a who's who of Paris Fashion Week in attendance, he effectively distilled the intoxicating experience of a luxury ski holiday into around 60 supremely seductive looks and 20 minutes of pure revelry that had guests bobbing their heads and gasping their approval from start to finish.

The style at arrivals set the stage for the spectacle on the runway. Sofia Carson dazzled in an elegant patterned dress while Rosie Huntington-Whiteley turned heads in a fatally chic white suit. Meanwhile, a Gossip Girl reunion provided one of the most iconic moments of this Paris fashion week; Kelly Rutherford and Leighton Meester created a global buzz as they sat side-by-side front row.

Of course, it was the clothes that ultimately seized the spotlight. The first look, a color-gradient fur paired with a slinky long dress and given a touch of sport luxe by a zipper detail, was an excellent introduction to the themes of the collection. Fur was everywhere. A flowing sleeveless coat, paired with a gracefully draped semi-sheer dress (Look 5), was ideal for making a bold statement at an opulent chalet party.

A burgundy fur, worn with a swoon-worthy chapka and a vivid pink turtleneck, exuded effortless glamour. An asymmetrical fur collar was ingeniously placed on a chocolate brown jacket for a look that combined femininity, strength, and sex appeal (Look 18). A voluminous short coat with angular shoulders (Look 14) alluded to the spirit of 60s and 70s—a golden era of alpine skiing immortalized by the photography of Slim Aarons. Aarons captured photos of tuxedoed waiters skiing with champagne buckets, women on the slopes in opulent gowns, and seafood feasts served mountaintop. He would have loved shooting this collection.

Saab's collection moved effortlessly between day and evening, always emblematic of exhilarating moments experienced in alpine towns. Some looks made me want to dance on the tables during après-ski (Look 57), while others beckoned me to attend a grand gala or three Michelin star dinner in an exclusive resort such as Les Airelles or Le Cheval Blanc in Courchevel (Look 63).

Distinctive moments of the collection included the combination of silk corsets with mermaid lace and floor-length gowns frosted with beads that evoked "moonlit, glacial waves." With deep understanding of the rhythms of the luxury skiing lifestyle, Saab even brought a touch of fireside cozy to his eveningwear, without diminishing any of its opulence. Breathtaking silk gowns were completed by a brilliant interpretation of the knit turtleneck (Looks 31, 37).

One shimmering strapless piece exploded into a sumptuous swath of fur enveloping the bodice (Look 40) while a transparent black lace dress was completed by a structured corset and a band of fur (Look 41). These unexpected and delightful fabric combinations showcased Saab's signature creativity; while this collection was timeless it was also uniquely contemporary.

Accessories were particularly strong this season. A series of Alaskan hats inspired visions of the grand romances of Doctor Zhivago and Anna Karenina while fur headbands winked at guests with flirtatious elegance (Looks 4, 8). Oversized black sunglasses carried the savoir faire of ski goggles and are easily interchangeable with them as one transitions from the slopes to après-ski (Look 57). Furry snow boots had both swagger and femininity while leather and satin pumps were perfect for a relaxing evening of fireside drinks or a long night of dancing at one of the Alps' mythical clubs.

Some of the best looks were saved for last; as if, swirling snowflakes were enveloping the slopes, the collection melted into an all-white fairy tale. An exquisitely jewel-frosted jacket was paired with a ruffled shirt and short trousers. A dramatic ushanka and long manteau topped an exquisite sheer dress. A shimmering latticework dress is one of the must-have pieces of the coming season. The show concluded with a crescendo featuring a bejeweled gown paired with a regal white fur coat and a decadent fur bag.

Having traveled to the Alps frequently, I can attest this collection was pitch-perfect. The looks captured the unmatched elation of slicing down the slopes on fresh powder, watching the mountain sky melt into a blanket of stars, and then trading ski boots for heels prior to a night of champagne and dancing. As I exited the Saab snow globe into the Paris sunshine, I was still basking in the Alpenglow and dreaming of next winter.