Text: Sophie Marie Rendon
Step into the sun-drenched savanna, where the air is thick with adventure and the spirit of exploration beckons. Elie Saab's Spring-Summer 2025 ready-to-wear collection transports us to this vivid landscape, drawing inspiration from the sultry atmosphere and breathtaking vistas that define the African plains. With a nod to Meryl Streep's iconic portrayal in “Out of Africa,” Saab has crafted a collection that blends lightness and sportiness with an irresistible sense of wanderlust.
Backstage before the show, Saab expressed his admiration for Streep, sharing how her performance inspired his vision for the season. Departing from the typical safari chic tropes, he opts for dark khaki green as his base neutral, punctuated by deep brick and dusty rose hues. These unexpected colors breathe new life into the safari aesthetic, moving away from the cliché while embracing the beauty of Africa's diverse landscapes.
The collection shines in its use of textures and materials, with raffia woven into skirts, dresses, and tops, and even interpreted as soft waffle-weave knits. This infusion of natural fibers enhances the organic feel of the lineup, connecting the garments to the earth while maintaining an air of sophistication. The palm frond shapes, expertly embroidered and sequined, further evoke the flora of the savannah, creating an immersive experience that transcends traditional fashion narratives.
Soft, S-curve shaped dresses in flowing fabrics nod to Streep's elegant style in the film, while maintaining a modern silhouette. Daywear takes center stage with bandeaus, crops, and corsets paired with trousers or full skirts, allowing for playful styling that embraces the spirit of the outdoors. Accessories, such as raffia totes and beach-ready bucket hats, complement the collection's laid-back yet chic vibe.
A standout piece, a striking raffia gown that showcased a perfect mix of texture and craftsmanship. The design featured fern embroidery woven into a floor-length tulle gown, giving it a natural yet refined look, as if inspired directly by the savannah. The raffia details added dimension, while the flowing silhouette remained true to Saab’s signature elegance. The balance between the airy, organic material and the structured embroidery made this piece a clear highlight. It captured the collection's blend of raw beauty and modern sophistication, demonstrating Saab's skill in creating impactful, statement-making fashion.
Throughout the runway presentation, Saab adorned the space with lush palms and vines, creating a botanical counterbalance to the modern setting of the Palais de Tokyo. This immersive environment further enhanced the collection's theme, allowing the audience to feel the essence of the African wilderness.
The inclusion of animal prints, presented in subtle micro leopard motifs, serves to enrich the collection without overwhelming it. These refined patterns appear on military jackets, chiffon gowns, and Saharienne coat dresses, exuding a quiet seductiveness that aligns perfectly with Saab's signature sophistication.
Elie Saab's Spring-Summer 2025 collection is not merely an exploration of safari themes; it is a journey that captures the spirit of the savannah, where refined silhouettes meet the free-spirited essence of nature. The designer has skillfully sidestepped the pitfalls of colonial nostalgia, offering a fresh perspective that honors the beauty of Africa without romanticizing its history of exploration.
This season, the Elie Saab woman emerges as a confident explorer, embodying a harmonious blend of freedom and sophistication. As these exquisite designs transition from the runway to retail, they are poised to resonate with those who seek not just elegance but also a connection to the untamed beauty of adventure.
Elie Saab invites us to embark on this journey with him, reminding us that fashion can be a powerful expression of the wild spirit within us all—a call to embrace adventure, authenticity, and the raw beauty of life.
