Emilia Wickstead's FW25 collection reimagines The Birds through a powerful homage to the women behind the film's legacy, blending fashion, film, and feminism.
By Fashion Editorial Staff
In a bold departure from conventional runway inspirations, Emilia Wickstead’s Fall-Winter 2025 collection takes flight with a cinematic tribute to Alfred Hitchcock’s The Birds. Rather than focusing on the director’s perspective, Wickstead’s designs explore the creative women who shaped the film’s legacy, reimagining the story through their eyes.
The Female Perspective Takes Flight
Presented at London’s Saatchi Gallery, Wickstead’s FW25 collection is a homage to three influential women behind The Birds: costume designer Edith Head, actress Tippi Hedren, and novelist Daphne du Maurier. "You can have anything you want in life if you dress for it," Head famously said—an ethos Wickstead embraces throughout the collection, where fashion transcends aesthetics to embody character, resilience, and subtle vulnerability.
Tailoring with Precision: The Edith Head Legacy
Head’s meticulous approach to costume design is evident in the collection’s tailored pieces. Grey melange garden wool and black Charmelaine cady suits feature unexpected button placements and inventive fabric combinations—an homage to Head’s belief that design must be both functional and beautiful. Soft, high collars evoke movement, subtly mimicking the flapping wings from Hitchcock’s film, tying the garments to the psychological tension and Head’s mastery of creating character through detail.
Poised Vulnerability: Tippi Hedren’s Influence
Wickstead’s collection also channels Hedren’s on-screen composure under duress. A chartreuse “bird’s eye” suit directly references Hedren’s iconic green ensemble from the film, while sculptural pieces in camel tones and draped wool balance strength with delicate vulnerability. Vibrant pops of pistachio and turquoise, alongside bold red sable crepe, inject psychological depth—reflecting Hedren’s nuanced performance. Billowing sleeves and dynamic collars capture the motion and suspense of birds in flight, evoking both beauty and tension.
Literary Tension: Du Maurier’s Atmospheric Touch
The collection’s bold color contrasts draw from du Maurier’s atmospheric storytelling. Rich hues like cobalt blue, royal purple, and chartreuse punctuate the more subdued palette of greys and blacks, mirroring the novelist’s ability to blend beauty with unease. Soft jacquards and fluid cowl necklines create empowering silhouettes, while “bird’s eye” fabrics and feather-like embellishments add a tactile dimension that honors du Maurier’s narrative depth.
Innovation in Form and Fabric
Wickstead pushes boundaries with experimental textiles throughout the collection. Photographic enamel flowers on technical nylon create holographic effects, while duchesse satin cleverly mimics tweed. Curling sequin discs and bold boucle jacquards introduce dynamic textures that speak to the collection's innovation. Silhouettes merge 1960s glamour with modern sensibilities: trapeze godets, lingerie-inspired necklines, exaggerated skirts, and sculptural suiting create a dialogue between past and present. Drop-waisted skirts, oversized bishop sleeves, and off-the-shoulder drapes lend dramatic movement to the garments.
A Cultural Reclamation
What sets Wickstead’s AW25 collection apart is its focus on reclaiming the often-overlooked contributions of the female creatives behind The Birds. By channeling the artistry of Edith Head, Tippi Hedren, and Daphne du Maurier, Wickstead offers a modern feminist reinterpretation of horror cinema’s aesthetic legacy. As models stormed the runway with shirt collars flapping like wings, reminiscent of the film’s iconic attic scene, Wickstead achieved a remarkable feat: a collection that honors cinematic history while celebrating the women whose creativity was crucial to the film’s legacy.
The Emilia Wickstead FW25 collection will be available via emiliawickstead.com, the designer’s London flagship store, and global retailers from September 2025.