New Zealand designer Emilia Wickstead presented her Spring-Summer 2025 collection as a refreshing ode to the female gaze. Drawing inspiration from the pioneering photographer Gisèle Freund, Wickstead interprets the observer and the observed, the public persona and the private individual.
Venue as Muse
Wickstead's choice of venue, the Royal Geographical Society in South Kensington, London, pays homage to Freund's journey through South America in the 1930s. This setting infuses the collection with a sense of adventure and discovery, mirroring Freund's pioneering spirit in both photography and travel.
The Power of Perspective
The lime green polo shirt with its plush black collar, transitioning into a skirt of ebony fringe, seems to echo Freund's perspective on photography and the 'female mentality.' It combines everyday practicality with an element of sophistication, perhaps reflecting Wickstead's interpretation of Freund's ideas about women as observers.
The collection's color story is as vibrant and varied as Freund's photography. Soft pastels of pink and yellow are juxtaposed with bolder hues like electric blue and fern green. This interplay of tones reflects the many angles of femininity that Wickstead seeks to capture. The designer's collaboration with heritage shoemaker Grenson adds a grounding element to the looks, with sandals featuring a bespoke fringe design that echoes the collection's themes of texture and movement.
Perhaps the most striking piece is a black and cream number that defies convention. The structured black bodice, cut asymmetrically across the torso, gives way to a voluminous cream skirt. This design brilliantly encapsulates the collection's theme of contrasting public and private personas - the rigid expectations of society juxtaposed with the flowing, authentic self.
A bubblegum pink midi dress, textured like crinkled paper, speaks to the practicality of Freund's subjects who set aside their jewels for more functional attire. Yet, even in its simplicity, the dress maintains an air of elegance, illustrating that comfort and style are not mutually exclusive.
Ultimately, Wickstead's Spring-Summer 2025 collection reflects the brand's ethos of modern femininity. By channeling Gisèle Freund's perspective, Wickstead has created a line that celebrates the empowerment of women through style. Each piece, whether a flowing floral gown or a structured asymmetrical dress, invites the wearer to embrace their multifaceted nature - observer and observed, public and private, strong and sensitive. In doing so, Wickstead reaffirms that fashion, like photography, can be a sartorial lens, bringing into focus the nuanced layers of the female experience.
