Text: Louise Daniel
Henri Levy unveils yet another unforgettable chapter of romantic punk syllogisms on the runway, merging raw emotion with intellectual rebellion.
Enfants Riches Déprimés occupies a distinctive and defiant space within the Paris fashion scene. Henri Alexander Levy has ingeniously carved out a niche in this saturated landscape by artfully balancing resilience and rebellion.
His collections, a fusion of high-brow sophistication and punk-infused defiance, speak to a generation unafraid to challenge norms while embodying unprecedented modern style philosophies. His latest collection for ERD Spring-Summer 2025 stems from a poetic yet provocative narrative about the constraints of modern life from the relentless push and pull of capitalism, and the pressures of societal norms to the emptiness of excessive consumption. Levy's vision is one that critiques the contemporary experience through a recognized design language that both inspires and provokes. As observed, front-row guests like Luka Sabbat and Betsey Johnson seem to embody the philosophy of Enfants Riches Déprimés, each interpreting it in their own unique way.
Held in the halls of Sotheby's Paris, the latest collection from Enfants Riches Déprimés pursued an artful design language that oscillates between rigidity and fluidity. Deconstructed designs were reimagined and elevated throughout the collection, with opulent silk dresses featuring baroque romantic silhouettes, and classic suit ensembles adorned with antique silver and bronze accents. Rebellion and luxury were felt in the visual nuances of the collection, staying true to Henri Levy's philosophy of embracing contradictions.
However, it wouldn't be an Enfants Riches Déprimés runway without an unexpected element of surprise. In this case, we get more than one. Each room featured a steel-caged installation, where performance artists embodied distinct ERD characters. Their performances set the tone for the runway, provocatively drawing the audience's attention with their raw and evocative displays—from a septet of musicians delivering haunting melodies to a boy getting his head shaved in a symbolic act of rebellion. Yet, they were just the beginning.
Nestled in a beautifully crafted cage bag, adorned with ERD's signature elements, was a quaint little white mouse with Ember eyes named Dinosaur Jr. Carried effortlessly by a model down the runway, the mouse immediately stirred curiosity, invoking whispers from the audience: "Is that a real mouse?"
This playful and thought-provoking display reinforced ERD's uncanny ability to inject a raw, grunge-inspired edge into an otherwise elegant ensemble. The ingenious use of a mouse actor added yet another layer to the brand's narrative of contradictions. It could even be taken as a subtle commentary on the state of fashion, suggesting that fashion is a limitless canvas of interpretation and creativity.
ERD's runways emulate a cinematic set, with nuanced characters possessing a unique quality that expands the traditional definition of a model. As Henri Levy noted in an interview two seasons ago, his casting process is not about "being a model" but about "characters" telling a story. This intentional and meticulous approach to casting goes beyond conventional standards, prioritizing the depth and authenticity of the personas embodying his designs. By selecting individuals who bring genuine character to the runway, Levy elevates the impact of his garments, allowing these "real" characters to breathe life into the clothes and deepen the narrative of each collection.
For this season, one can observe the recurrence of familiar characters on his runway, a testament to Levy's dedication to fostering a strong sense of identity within the ERD community. In return, this simultaneously fuels the organic growth of his brand's narrative.
Every season, Henri Levy's collections push beyond their boundaries, presenting designs that not only showcase refined craftsmanship but also deliver a resonant message; one that questions, provokes, and transforms. The recent collection calls upon its audience to reflect on the looming pressures of modern life. Levy responds through the language of fashion, creating a delicate balance between artistic progression and relentless social critique. Each collection becomes a journey into the modern abyss, where the complexities of contemporary existence are unraveled through subversive elegance and the rawness of human emotion.
Once again, ERD invites us to gaze into the abyss of modern life through the lens of fashion, consistently proving the undeniable impact of clothing crafted with introspective depth and artistic precision.