Artistic Director of Couture and Womenswear, Kim Jones presents the FENDI Couture fall winter 2022 collection. Jones said of this season, “In this collection, we are looking at fragments of different cities, namely Kyoto, Paris, and Rome. The fragmentary nature of things is echoed throughout the collection, like snatches of memory or the impression of things past, present, and future.” Guests attending the show included: Leonie Hanne, Bryan Boy, Cindy Bruna, Didi Stone, Tamara Kalinic, Heart Evangelista, Mary Leest, Veronika Heilbrunner, Veronica Ferraro, Chriselle Lim, Jessica Wang, Susie Lau, Yara Namlah, Diala Makki.
Explore the full FENDI Couture fall winter 2022 collection and VIP guests below.
Inspiration starts with Japan
“Kyoto, the cultural capital of Japan, is the starting point. Here, fragments of kimono fabric from the eighteenth century were found, becoming a foundation for the future as both recreations and reinterpretations in the collection. Kata Yuzen, a painstaking hand printing and painting technique unchanged for many hundreds of years, is once again utilized for these fabrications. Made in Kyoto as traditional silk panels, here they are sliced and asymmetrically reformed in floor-length dress silhouettes. The cascading Acer palmatum leaves from the fabric design – named Ode to Autumn in the 1700s – find various forms throughout, particularly in the proliferation of delicate embroideries that reach a crescendo in the final tulle gowns of the collection.”
“Parallels are drawn between East and West, masculine and feminine, the natural and the man-made, tradition and the modern, right through Autumn-Winter. The Kata Yuzen dresses are echoed and find their continental counterpart in the sinuous, glittering crystal cages that more reflect the architectonic spirit of Paris in their construction and fabrication, yet still ultimately frame and yield to the body.”
A sense of French ‘Japonisme’ and art deco ornament in the flou, is joined by a more Italian take on the tailleur in the Vicuna, leather and fur work. Nods to masculine codes of tailoring are found in Vicuna fabric suiting and cognac calf leather pieces, with their structures, emphasized internally and at times externally. There are also personal pleasures, just for the wearer in the construction of many of the items – internally, traditional Japanese fabrics are used as linings and quiltings in suiting as well as in underpinnings in dresses. The supreme skills of the FENDI fur atelier are on display in the intarsia construction of the shaved mink suiting. Here, an abstract reinterpretation of another traditional Japanese fabric fragment from the eighteenth century is realized – named Rope Mountain, it both grounds and monumentalizes the collection.”
runway images to follow…