Julien Dossena's Pre-Spring 2026 collection blurs the lines between eras, creating a sophisticated rebellion against fashion's rigid timelines
By The Fashion Editorial Team
Under Julien Dossena's direction, Rabanne has mastered the art of blending heritage with innovative flair in the latest Pre-Spring 2026 collection. This season's defining philosophy revolves around effortless elegance ("Less ostentation, more ease"), drawn inspiration from Françoise Hardy's understated sophistication.
From Hardy to Party
Dossena draws upon two distinct collections: Hardy and Party. In this vision, glamour clashes with grunge to create a new vocabulary of luxury that resonates across generations. Dossena's vision draws inspiration from an unlikely muse: the effortless elegance of Françoise Hardy's wardrobe, transforming the French icon's understated sophistication into something decidedly more complex and contemporary. Here, glamour collides with grunge creating a new vocabulary of luxury that speaks to multiple generations.
Temporal Collisions
Temporal collisions are another aspect where Dossena showcases his bold approach to chronology. A fitted tuxedo draped with liquid-like sequins references structured elegance from the 1970s while its surface treatment recalls decorative excesses of the 1930s. This tension reflects a rebellious spirit reminiscent of the 1990s – evident in subtle subversions like denim paired with sequin ballet flats or a mid-length croc skirt with a chainmail belt worn brazenly during daylight hours.
In contrast to nostalgic pastiche, this collection feels fresh and revitalizing. What sets these pieces apart is their ability to distill essence without succumbing to dated elements. Materials take center stage here: chain mail shimmers hypnotically at hips; mousseline transforms evening wear into wearable art through intricate beadwork; faux fur coats challenge assumptions about texture and construction.
For casual luxury, Dossena's pursuit reflects a broader shift toward versatile wardrobe pieces that can be dressed up or down according to context, attitude, or styling. This philosophy shines in the Pre-collection with Spencer jackets, buttery yellow trousers blurring lines between uniform and couture. Even accessories like the return of the Ring bag ("striking animations") become sculptural statements capable of being "dialed up" for dramatic effect.
In sum, the Pre-Spring 2026 collection embodies an essence of generous, joyful, and playful fashion – qualities that speak to the expressive eclectic approach to luxury and style. With this brilliant vision for the coming season, Dossena invites the Rabanne woman to experiment with luxurious and bold styles across a wide range of fashion eras.