Gucci Women’s Spring-Summer 2025: Sabato De Sarno’s ’60s Revival Draws Dakota Johnson, Daisy Edgar-Jones, Jin, Hanni, and More

In a captivating display of retro-futurism, Gucci's Spring-Summer 2025 collection, unveiled on September 20, 2024, at Milan Fashion Week, marked a significant milestone for creative director Sabato De Sarno. One year into his tenure, De Sarno has deftly woven Gucci's rich heritage with a fresh perspective, introducing the fashion world to the concept of "casual grandeur."

The collection pays homage to the swinging '60s, reimagined through a contemporary lens. De Sarno's fascination with the era is evident in every detail, from structured jackets and A-line skirts to wrap-around sunglasses with gradient lenses. The color palette, a sophisticated blend of greys, whites, and greens, is punctuated by the newly introduced Gucci Rosso Ancora – a hue destined for iconic status.

The show's setting at the Triennale Milano was a spectacle in itself. Transformed into a long corridor of sunset hues, the space progressed from pristine white to deep Gucci Rosso Ancora, creating an immersive experience that reflected the collection's palette. This collaboration further cemented Gucci's commitment to cultural dialogue and contemporary art.

The event drew an impressive array of celebrities and fashion icons. Returning guests included Solange and Kirsten Dunst, joined by Hollywood A-listers like Dakota Johnson, Daisy Edgar-Jones, and Nicola Coughlan. The diverse guest list also featured Nara, Lucky Blue Smith, Jannik Sinner, Hanni, Olivia Dean, Gabbriette, and Brenda Hashtag, underscoring Gucci's broad appeal across entertainment and fashion spheres.

De Sarno's expertise in tailoring shines through in standout pieces like trousers cut to skim sneakers, blurring gender lines in fashion. Grand coats with a couture attitude breathe new life into the classic GG Monogram, paired effortlessly with denim and tank tops to embody the essence of casual grandeur.

The Gucci Bamboo 1947 bag, redesigned with contemporary details in leather, lacquer, and Plexiglas shines. Bamboo-inspired jewelry intertwines with the body, complementing flowing jersey dresses and square-toe platforms. The new compact Gucci Go bag signals a move towards versatile, everyday luxury.

A standout piece from the collection was Look 6, featuring a striking red leather coat that caught the eye of fashion's most discerning critics. This piece, reminiscent of the '60s mod aesthetic yet thoroughly modern, may very well become a favorite of Anna Wintour, editor-in-chief of Vogue. The coat's presence in the collection underscores De Sarno's ability to create pieces that stay true to his vision of 'casual grandeur' while pleasing fashion industry critics.

The collection features a reimagined Gucci Flora foulard, originally designed by Vittorio Accornero de Testa, now presented in tone-on-tone colorways. The iconic Horsebit detail evolves from classic loafers to platforms, creepers, ballerinas, and ankle boots, showcasing Gucci's ability to reinvent its heritage.

In a unique touch, the runway featured one-of-a-kind Gucci Bamboo 1947 bags reimagined by Japanese artists, celebrating 60 years of Gucci in Japan. This collaborative project highlights the brand's global influence and appreciation for diverse artistic perspectives.

The show's atmosphere was enhanced by a carefully curated playlist of Italian remixed house music, a signature Gucci move to reinforce its cultural roots and contemporary relevance.

"A year later, this collection shows an accomplished journey of construction," De Sarno noted in the show's press release. His concept of casual grandeur takes shape through his obsessions – tailoring, lingerie, leather, and '60s silhouettes – combined with a tireless exploration of Gucci's heritage and an irreverent attitude.

As the fashion world continues to evolve, Gucci's SS25 collection reflects the power of thoughtful design and cultural nostalgia. By looking to the past for inspiration while keeping a firm eye on the future, Sabato De Sarno has created a collection that feels both nostalgic and utterly contemporary, potentially setting a new standard in luxury fashion for years to come.