In a captivating display of retro-futurism,Gucci'sSpring-Summer 2025 collection, unveiled on September 20, 2024, atMilan Fashion Week, marked a significant milestone for creative directorSabato De Sarno. One year into his tenure, De Sarno has deftly woven Gucci's rich heritage with a fresh perspective, introducing the fashion world to the concept of "casual grandeur."
60s Renaissance in Modern Luxury
The collection pays homage to the swinging '60s, reimagined through a contemporary lens. De Sarno's fascination with the era is evident in every detail, from structured jackets and A-line skirts to wrap-around sunglasses with gradient lenses. The color palette, a sophisticated blend of greys, whites, and greens, is punctuated by the newly introducedGucci Rosso Ancora– a hue destined for iconic status.
Triennale Milano
The show's setting at theTriennale Milanowas a spectacle in itself. Transformed into a long corridor of sunset hues, the space progressed from pristine white to deepGucci Rosso Ancora, creating an immersive experience that reflected the collection's palette. This collaboration further cemented Gucci's commitment to cultural dialogue and contemporary art.
Star-Studded Front Row
The event drew an impressive array of celebrities and fashion icons. Returning guests includedSolangeandKirsten Dunst, joined by Hollywood A-listers likeDakota Johnson,Daisy Edgar-Jones, andNicola Coughlan. The diverse guest list also featuredNara,Lucky Blue Smith,Jannik Sinner,Hanni,Olivia Dean,Gabbriette, andBrenda Hashtag, underscoring Gucci's broad appeal across entertainment and fashion spheres.
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Sharp Tailoring and Silhouettes
De Sarno's expertise in tailoring shines through in standout pieces like trousers cut to skim sneakers, blurring gender lines in fashion. Grand coats with a couture attitude breathe new life into the classic GG Monogram, paired effortlessly with denim and tank tops to embody the essence of casual grandeur.
TheGucci Bamboo 1947 bag, redesigned with contemporary details in leather, lacquer, and Plexiglas shines. Bamboo-inspired jewelry intertwines with the body, complementing flowing jersey dresses and square-toe platforms. The new compactGucci Go bagsignals a move towards versatile, everyday luxury.
A standout piece from the collection wasLook 6, featuring a striking red leather coat that caught the eye of fashion's most discerning critics. This piece, reminiscent of the 60s mod aesthetic yet thoroughly modern,may very well become a favoriteofAnna Wintour, editor-in-chief ofVogue. The coat's presence in the collection underscores De Sarno's ability to create pieces that stay true to his vision of 'casual grandeur' while pleasing fashion industry critics.
Iconic Gucci Elements
The collection features a reimaginedGucci Florafoulard, originally designed by Vittorio Accornero de Testa, now presented in tone-on-tone colorways. The iconic Horsebit detail evolves from classic loafers to platforms, creepers, ballerinas, and ankle boots, showcasing Gucci's ability to reinvent its heritage.
Celebrating Gucci's Japanese Legacy
In a unique touch, the runway featured one-of-a-kind Gucci Bamboo 1947 bags reimagined by Japanese artists, celebrating 60 years of Gucci in Japan. This collaborative project highlights the brand's global influence and appreciation for diverse artistic perspectives.
The show's atmosphere was enhanced by a carefully curated playlist of Italian remixed house music, a signature Gucci move to reinforce its cultural roots and contemporary relevance.
"A year later, this collection shows an accomplished journey of construction," De Sarno noted in the show's press release. His concept of casual grandeur takes shape through his obsessions – tailoring, lingerie, leather, and 60s silhouettes – combined with a tireless exploration of Gucci's heritage and an irreverent attitude.
As the fashion world continues to evolve, Gucci's SS25 collection reflects the power of thoughtful design and cultural nostalgia. By looking to the past for inspiration while keeping a firm eye on the future, Sabato De Sarno has created a collection that feels both nostalgic and utterly contemporary, potentially setting a new standard in luxury fashion for years to come.