Heliot Emil spring summer 2023

October 7, 2022

Victor and Julius Juul of HELIOT EMIL

Victor and Julius Juul present the HELIOT EMIL spring summer 2023 collection as part of Paris Fashion Week.

Collection notes

The SS23 Collection is titled ‘Primal Substance’. Creative Director Julius Juul was Inspired by the Bill Viola’s Art Piece: ‘Martyrs Composite’.

The artwork pictures the four prime elements: Water, Earth, Fire, Air and their effects on the human body. Recorded in super slow-motion, the el­ements interact with the individuals to create a breathtaking visual expe­rience. Taking this concept into consideration, the collection features var­ious inspiration from the primal elements and their effects on the body, examples to highlight are; fabrics reacting to temperature change, using wind turbines to inflate garments, uniquely placed air slips, water-resistant fabrics, and details like seam lines referencing the contour lines of earth.


The collection also features a concept collaboration with Alpinestars®, the world-leading manufacturer of professional motorsport performance gear. Alpinestars is named after the perennial Alpine star flower in latin known as the Leontopodium nivale. Found in remote mountain areas like the rocky limestone of the Alps at about 3000m altitude, the flower is able to with­stand incredible conditions of the primal elements, referring back to the concept of the collection.

A sensory experience

To further the sensory experience of the SS23 show, HELIOT EMIL collab­orated with UNIFROM, a Swedish-based fragrance house. HELIOT EMIL was especially fascinated with the innovative approach of interaction with perfume. Inspired by the concept of the collection, UNIFROM translates the vision into a scent infused with notes of Maté, Sichuan Pepper, Cedar­wood, and Cinnamon. HELIOT EMIL conceptualized a special perfume bag that integrates the perfume perfectly in the aesthetic of the brand. The scents are conceptualized in Stockholm, developed in Paris, and made in Grasse, all alcohol-free, cruelty-free and vegan.

Show sounds

In a continual exploration into the stimulation of different senses, Julius worked in close collaboration with sound and visual artist Lorem to create an artificial intelligence-generated audio track for the show. Lorem is a trans-media project of artist and musician Francesco D’Abbracio. Fasci­nated by artificial intelligence and the ability of machine-generated sound, Lorem works with neural networks and digital systems to create works with a strong narrative component. Lorem was invited to create his interpreta­tion of the HELIOT EMIL SS23 collection for the show.