Hermès FW25 Resonates with Sophisticated Strength

Hermès FW25 reimagines classics and elevates felt to star status in a quietly powerful collection.

By Jesse Scott

Nadège Vanhée found strength in subtlety for a stellar FW25 collection which proved that whispers can be just as impactful as shouts. In a season where many brands have seized inspiration from the bold silhouettes and glamorous colors of the 1990s, Hermès reaffirmed its commitment to its reserved and timeless aesthetic. After all, the Hermès woman, as Vanhée explained in the show notes, "has everything she needs." Completely self-assured, with a natural charisma and nothing to prove, she "takes a stride, determined…moves forward, never back."

This was a collection for the highly discerning and effortlessly elegant: those who unintentionally make a statement by not making a statement and who embody the nobility and grace of a bygone aristocracy with contemporary sensibility. Fittingly, given that the show headlined Paris Fashion Week's International Women's Day calendar, it was also an homage to feminine strength and resilience.

Menswear was a primary source of inspiration for the collection, which projected a graceful fortitude through impeccably tailored pieces of cashmere, wool, silk, and goatskin. The color palette was solemn yet sumptuous in the best possible way: rich bordeaux, deep brown, pine green, and volcanic grey complemented the bountiful if moody landscapes that one could imagine the modern Hermès equestrian riding through.

Hermès never strays far from its equestrian roots and while references to horses have dominated the runways of Paris and Milan this season, the nearly 200-year old maison indisputably remains the final word in the theme. This year saw tall riding boots (Look 5), coveted quilted leather (Look 32), and a particularly ingenuous new shorts design (Look 16) seize the mantle. Made to appear like two saddle flaps joining together, complete with elegantly playful tassels, they epitomized both sensuality and practicality.

Form followed function, with touches of feminine flair, throughout the collection. Vanhée's Hermès woman chooses versatile classics that fit into her lifestyle, expresses her personality through carefully considered details that take a discerning eye to discover and will not compromise for anything less than impeccable craftsmanship.

Felt was a primary protagonist this season, flowing like leather on swoon-worthy coats and dresses (Looks 3, 7) that are among the most iconic quiet luxury pieces of the season.

Cashmere and silk turtlenecks were also highlights, some with surprising zipper details that lent a sleek modernity to classic aesthetics (Looks 59, 60). The zipper details returned on a slinky dress (Look 58), emblematic of the feminine functionality that embodied many of the pieces.

For those who prefer a pop of pastel in the grey winter months, Hermès proposed a series of looks in a cheerful linden (Looks 44, 47). One such look re-interpreted the saddle flap inspiration of the shorts as a dress, tassels cinched at the waist like decorative details on a belt.

A major trend of this season is that Hermès' trademark style is trending. Just as equestrian style has been prominent, so too has leather, including from many unexpected maisons. This paradigm is simply further proof of Hermès' timeless appeal; never following trends, and oft-imitated but never replicated. Under Vanhée's sure-handed direction, the maison again emphasized leather on the Fall-Winter 2025 runway, proposing an expansive series of luxurious pieces that showcased the versatility of the material and revealed subtle new details with each examination. (Looks 6, 12, 22, 27).

The models made their final walk down a labyrinthine runway to an enthusiastic round of applause from an exclusive guest list including Heart Evangelista, Jessica Alba, Tamara Kalinin, and the Babani twins. Hermès remains the gold standard in timeless Parisian style, and this nuanced and cohesive collection demonstrated why.