By Jesse Scott
Véronique Nichanian focused on layered luxury for Spring/Summer 2026, offering a complete and versatile wardrobe that employed unexpected fabrics and colors while remaining true to the Maison’s discreet aesthetic. Entitled 'Summer in the City,' the collection emphasized breathable and loose silhouettes with contemporary sensibility and an occasional urban edge. Impeccably tailored jackets were perfect for city sophisticates seeking effortless elegance, without appearing overly casual (Look 7), meanwhile, oversized weekender bags, noted for their sleek modern patterns, conjured images of high-powered businessmen momentarily escaping from work for a couple days at their pied-à-terre or Monaco.
Each ensemble was carefully considered down to the smallest detail; accessories such as scarves, belts, and bracelets were significant, not because they stood out, but because they harmoniously completed them with a particular savoir-faire. Nichanian’s Hermès is defined by a deliberate all-encompassing aesthetic. Her vision evolves every season, reflecting the specific flashpoint while remaining unquestionably timeless. Spring/Summer 2026 was her strongest and most innovative collection in recent memory.
Lightweight Leather Demonstrates Nichanian’s Brilliance
Leather doesn’t immediately leap to mind as a summer material yet it was employed brilliantly by Nichanian as a centerpiece of this collection. In a testament to her ingenuity, which seldom gets discussed due to Hermès’ remarkable consistency as the gold standard in quiet luxury, she designed a series of lightweight leather pieces that equip clients for all types of summer weather. The jackets were supremely sensual (Look 11). Meanwhile, openwork woven t-shirts carried easy confidence and unintentional swagger-like aristocracy (Look 38).
Other highlights included covetable slouchy tee-shirts with ruffles draped around the necks like ascots, sleeveless knits (another example of an unconventional summer material adapted into lightweight and versatile pieces), and jaunty high-waisted trousers with built-in belts. The color scheme was dominated by luxurious shades of camel, cream, and tobacco, with discerningly chosen pops of emerald green injecting playful personality. My personal favorite piece was a supple green jacket effortlessly draped over a loosely buttoned caramel shirt and paired irreverently with a canvas bag bearing a monkey motif (Look 33).
Shoes and Bags Take Center Stage
This season was particularly strong for Hermès accessories. Oversized bags covered catwalks this summer, and Hermès led the way with a modular duffle that perfectly synthesized form and function. Another standout was the equestrian-inspired HAC, decorated with an image of a horse leaping over a jump recalling early black-and-white sports photography (Look 19). All bags were generously proportioned. 'Summer in the City' was designed for a gentleman on the move, each option serving as a refined weekender for a spontaneous getaway.
The most playful component of the collection was the thong shoes (Look 29), juxtaposed against long trousers for a surprisingly blend of formality and barefoot Boho, which will surely be spotted on both urban pavement and on sandy beaches next summer season. In this fast-paced fashion flashpoint, some houses focus on surprising people while others focus on executing what they perceive as an established vision. This season, Hermès successfully found balance by embracing a globally-minded approach where pieces can be found in high-powered New York meetings just as easily as on Saint-Tropez’s famous beaches.
