Runway

Hermès women’s spring summer 2023

October 1, 2022

runway hermes ss23

Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski presents the Hermès women's spring summer 2023 collection as part of Paris Fashion Week. See the collection notes, details, and looks from below.

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A rave in the desert

The sound radiating from behind the hill follows the drift of the dawn: she’s never felt anything so beautiful. It spreads in layers. It’s enough to draw close to this magic mountain for the air to be suffused with singular power. This wasn’t the only transformation: the colors emanating from the landscape came alive and began to move, to shimmer – sunbaked red, sulfur yellow – as though liquefied.

She came here in the hopes that this impromptu encampment, this return to a life in the heart of nature, would bring her a long-desired plenitude. So she cleverly chose her clothes to suit what she expected from this desert dance: garments by turns yellow ochre, ebony, sandy beige, Thar brown. And dawn pink for the morning, to hold the coolness before it escaped.

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Each of these pieces seems to have been cut straight out of a net, a hammock, a mosquito screen. Some of them recall, over their entire length, the fluttering of a flag.

She gathered pants, shorts, and jackets practically cut from the tent itself. All these weaves ordinarily designed to protect us, she wanted to open them up in different places. With some knotting ropes, she can put them in dialogue with the outside world, with the living.

As the night reaches its climax, wrapped in a 3D-printed dress that couples her movements to the lines of her body, she carries at last, on her person, this stirring inner journey that began in joy.

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Details

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