By Jesse Scott
Against the spectacular backdrop of the Cartier Foundation, designed by Jean Nouvel, IM Men penned a love letter to cloth and the human hand this past Thursday. Founded in 2021 by Issey Miyake, IM Men transformed the elegantly modern venue into a kaleidoscope of color to present a collection which found harmony in contrast and wove a complex narrative through a foundation of simplicity.
Miyake Meticulously Crafts Collection
Issey Miyake collections are distinctly intellectual; meticulously considered down to the last detail, they often open a dialogue that transcends fashion while demonstrating a profound appreciation for Japanese culture. This season, Miyake found inspiration in the ceramic works of Shoji Kimoda, an Osaka-born artist who revolutionized his field in the mid-20th century. Miyake translated Kimoda’s vision into sartorial form with the playful synergy of flair and function that has become the IM signature. Entitled 'Dancing Texture,' the collection was notable for trompe d’oeil animal-scale effects created on cotton (Look 4), 'fishing net nylon' that flowed effortlessly down the runway (Look 31), and pastel suits that recalled summers on the Côte d'Azur (Look 14). Miyake prioritised process as much as the final aesthetic, applying the same attention to detail critical to Kimoda's ceramics to his own interpretation of them. The 'Kaiyu' looks, perhaps the most memorable of the collection, saw Miyake duplicate a unique pottery glazing method (involving plant ash) through pigment printing (Look 18). Meanwhile, the Ginto Flat look, inspired by silver pottery, was created by applying silver foil to the garment’s original form (Look 8). Art met artisanship, as silhouettes danced together in a manner that reflected both a futuristic outlook and respect for the past.
Enveloped in Cloth with Surprising Volumes
Miyake continued to push the boundaries of what can be done with 'a piece of cloth' this season. True to the harmony in Kimoda's work and his own penchant for transforming how we perceive the relationship between our bodies and the fabric we envelop them in, where, for example, in his women's FW 2025/26 collection saw singular pieces of cloth worn in a myriad of surprising ways. In this collection, Miyake used innovative techniques to make garments that seemed to live and breathe as one with the models. For instance, the Engrave capsule created striking textures through heat-shrinking yarn that had been woven with a jacquard loom. Meanwhile, the Earth capsule employed a series of unexpected asymmetrical details to create a delightfully voluminous silhouette that challenged our expectations of how a garment should be structured (Look 42).
ASICS Collaboration Marks Exciting New Era
The footwear also seized the spotlight this season, as Miyake Design Studio teamed up with ASICS SportStyle to create a set of shoes called Hyper Taping. Appearing to wrap the foot like athletic taping, the shoes expanded Miyake’s mission to blur the lines between body and cloth to create a harmonious union. It's an exciting new era for IM Men – we wait with bated breath for the next chapter.
