Infinite Identities: Ann Demeulemeester SS24 Collection

October 1, 2023

Model on the catwalk at the Ann Demeulemeester fashion show in Paris, Spring Summer 2024 Ready To Wear Fashion Week, Photo by Valerio Mezzanotti

Paris Fashion Week witnessed the unveiling of Ann Demeulemeester's Spring/Summer 2024 Collection, marking the dawn of a new era under the creative direction of Stefano Gallici. Set in a secluded warehouse on the fringes of the city, the collection echoed the brand’s illustrious past, rendered in a contemporary, slightly rebellious tone, reflecting Gallici’s innovative spirit.

The Power of Indefiniteness

The atmosphere was imbued with the sounds of crashing waves, and the dimly lit hall became a canvas where Gallici painted his sartorial expressions. The collection spoke in shadows of dramatic, gender-neutral suits adorned with subversive harnesses, and gowns in quiet yet profound black tones played a delicate dance with sheerness as a defining element.

Gallici, stepping into the spotlight after Ludovic de Saint Sernin’s brief tenure, crafted a color narrative primarily in black and white, interrupted by moments of sheer blue; a nostalgic nod to Demeulemeester’s ‘90s creations, serving as stark reminiscences of the brand's rich legacy.

Introspection and Presence

The prolific use of belts, often wrapped and entangled in seemingly chaotic harmony around the models, spoke of constraint yet hinted at freedom, echoing Gallici’s philosophy of enabling the wearer “to be as one wants.” It was a subtle rebellion, a free-flowing articulation of his desire to offer the wearer the freedom to construct their personal mindscapes and dress them in pieces that are constructed to appear undefined.

This collection is a reflection of the power and beauty found in ambiguity and a poetic celebration of the symbiosis of tangible and intangible elements. Each look becomes a singular echo of self-expression and a fragment of a larger, multifaceted puzzle of sartorial elegance. Discover more at