At first glance, the two brands of Kazakh designerAizhan Beissembayevadiffer to the point of being oxymoronic.Arevik Hamar, a couture house which has been popular among Kazakhstan's elite for the past five years, emphasizes conservative feminine elegance. Hewing closely to traditional notions of Kazakh beauty and style, the brand consistently offers graceful silhouettes that align with contemporary sensibilities but are more likely to adopt trends than set them.
In stark contrast,Dark'N'Core, a new label that made an explosive debut atTashkent Fashion Weekthis fall, offers a dangerous yet sophisticated Berlin edge that is wholly new for Central Asian fashion.Dark'N'Core's primary medium is leather not silk, with jagged oversized silhouettes replacing clean cuts.
Yin and yang: two sides of the same coin. For Aizhan,Dark'N'CoreandArevik Hamarare equally ensconced in her DNA: they are the canvas upon which she translates the darkness and light that she has possessed since her childhood. In the wake ofDark'N'Core's Tashkent show, which was received with thunderous applause by a diverse international audience, I sat down with Aizhan in her Astana showroom to talk her journey in fashion, the stark contrast in her brands, andDark'N'Core's unique "intelligent dark" aesthetic.
From Economics to Artistry
JS:Tell me about your first exposure to fashion; what inspired you to enter the industry?
AB:I have been involved in fashion since I was born. I was sewing with my aunt when I was a small child and made my first gown when I was five. But I originally thought that fashion should not be a profession; I viewed it as my hobby. I finished my studies in economics and took a corporate job making budgets. I found it really boring, and after I realized that the office environment was not for me, I founded my atelier.
A Tale of Two Brands
JS:You're most well-known for Arevik Hamar, a couture brand which you've had for several years. What inspired you to diversify and launch Dark'N'Core?
AB:I was recently studying at a Russian fashion academy for nine months. When I was making patterns there, my teachers said 'these are not something for Arevik - this is a totally new concept.' I realized that in order to express myself through these new designs I needed to start a second brand.
JS:How would you describe the difference between Arevik, a couture brand, and the more avant-garde Dark'N'Core?
AB:For Arevik Hamar I am using very sensitive and expensive fabrics such as silk and cashmere. With Dark'N'Core, I usually use leather and different types of cotton, which I manipulate in unique ways. Dark'N'Core is mainly about working with forms. I call it 'intelligent dark' fashion.
The audiences for my brands are completely different; they're listening to different music and living completely different lifestyles. But I am living both ways! When I was born, my parents first called me Arevik, which means 'sun' in the Armenian language. Two years later, they started calling me Aizhan, which means the 'moon.' These names describe my different sides, and even my interests in fashion today. Arevik is my 'sun' brand, and 'Dark'N'Core' is my 'moon' brand.
The Tashkent Debut
JS:Tell me about the Dark'N'Core show in Tashkent. The collection felt very cohesive; what was your vision?
AB:I called the collection 'Materium.' For me 'Materium' is all about being connected to subtle energies within the universe. When people have this connection, they have qualities like intuition, clarity, willpower, passion, and wisdom. These were all represented by the fabrics and colors in the show. For example, silver represented intuition, white represented wisdom, a corset represented passion, structured leather stood for willpower, and clarity was referenced by root-like forms that extended off dresses or wrapped around the models' arms.
I love post-apocalyptic themes. The collection was partially inspired by Diva Plavalaguna, the opera diva from the movie The Fifth Element [an apocalyptic 1997 French sci-fi film with a cult following]. I like her persona because she is talented, she also has responsibility, and she is not scared of anything. She also has all of these serpentine connectors coming off her head, which you see referenced in the collection.
Looking Forward
JS:What's next for Dark'N'Core and Arevik Hamar?
AB:I want to continue to grow both brands, participating in events in Kazakhstan and also returning to Tashkent Fashion Week. When I debuted Dark'N'Core in Uzbekistan, I was surprised by how many people understood my collection. There they have a very different style in Uzbekistan, so I was worried that no one would accept my designs. I was happy to talk to many people who loved the collection, even if the audience is still small.
I would love to expand into Europe as well. It is my dream to go to Berlin; I think Dark'N'Core will fit really well with the scene there.