Text: Sophie Marie Rendon
Issey Miyake's Spring-Summer 2025 collection, unveiled at Paris Fashion Week, stands as a stunning homage to the elegance and versatility of paper. Aptly titled "The Beauty of Paper," this collection, under the creative direction of Satoshi Kondo, takes viewers on a sensory journey exploring the intersection of nature, craft, and modern fashion in a uniquely Miyake way.
The presentation, held in a glass-walled pavilion at Parc Floral, immersed attendees in an atmosphere of tranquility and grounding. Guests were seated on stools crafted from compressed paper cylinders, cleverly echoing the brand's innovative pleating technology and setting the stage for a visually striking and conceptually rich runway.
Drawing inspiration from washi, traditional Japanese paper, Kondo's designs embody the ethereal qualities of paper, evoking a sense of lightness and fluidity that is both calming and transformative. As models glided down the runway, it felt as though they were drifting through a dream—a world where the boundaries between fabric and paper beautifully blur.
Kondo's exploration of various papermaking techniques was evident in the diverse materials used, ranging from ancient hemp fibers to modern rayon-silk blends. Each piece seemed to tell a story, reflecting not only the heritage of papermaking but also the emotional connections we share with this timeless medium. The collection featured garments that appeared folded like origami, with angular silhouettes adding an architectural dimension to the looks.
Standout pieces included tailored pants in an eggplant hue with exaggerated, jagged hips and airy windbreakers that seemed woven from the very essence of the sky. The interplay of transparency and volume created a mesmerizing effect, reminiscent of leaves floating gently in the breeze. Floral prints on washed silk floated effortlessly around the models, enhancing the feeling of weightlessness permeating the collection.
Kondo's "Fold to Form" technique, inspired by the intricate art of origami, added a poetic touch to the collection. It emphasized the connection between garment and body, allowing the fabric to move and flow in harmony with the wearer. This innovative approach highlights Miyake's longstanding philosophy of designing from a single piece of fabric, redefining the relationship between clothing and the human form.
The collection culminated in stunning column-like dresses, their pleats merging into spirals that echoed the natural movement of the body. Each garment celebrated texture, with pressed flower details evoking the delicacy of nature—like flowers preserved between the pages of an antique book.
In this collection, Issey Miyake not only honors its storied legacy but also embraces a contemporary vision that resonates deeply with today's audience. The seamless fusion of tradition and innovation is a hallmark of Kondo's direction, as he continues to challenge perceptions of space and form in fashion.
Ultimately, Issey Miyake's Spring-Summer 2025 collection is a masterful exploration of the beauty and significance of paper, a material that has accompanied humanity for centuries. Through Kondo's visionary lens, we are invited to reflect on our connection to this medium, finding comfort and inspiration in its delicate yet powerful nature. This collection is not merely about clothing; it is a celebration of artistry, heritage, and the enduring impact of design.