Jacquemus' LA CROISIÈRE collection, now in stores, blends couture-inspired sophistication with mid-century glamour.
Stepping away from his signature grandiose runways, Jacquemus presented his latest collection, LA CROISIÈRE—French for "Cruise"—in an intimate setting for just 40 guests inside the private apartment of architect Auguste Perret this past January. Known for staging cinematic productions against sweeping landscapes, this season, Jacquemus chose a more restrained approach.
Famed for destination shows reflecting their environments—draped pastel jerseys and chiffon in Capri, crinkled linen on the shores of Oahu, sheer gauzy fabrics floating against the surreal salt mountains of the South of France—Jacquemus pivoted for Spring-Summer 2025. The designer embraced a more structured, polished, and undeniably grown-up aesthetic. Despite taking place at the beginning of Haute Couture Week in Paris, this ready-to-wear collection carried subtle nods to couture, both in its salon-style presentation and the meticulous craftsmanship of the garments. The quiet grandeur of Perret’s Art Deco masterpiece, with its oak paneling and raw concrete columns, offered a striking contrast to his past spectacles—yet the effect was no less powerful.
The guest list was as curated as the setting, with Central Cee, Tyla, and Hongjoong observing the runway from an eclectic mix of mismatched chairs. Fashion icons Christy Turlington and Adriana Lima embodied timeless 50s elegance, walking in looks that were refined, structured, and undeniably sophisticated. Adding an unexpected touch, the entire show was filmed on an iPhone 16 Pro Max—a modern contrast to the vintage-inspired aesthetic.
A few days later, under Paris' familiar winter gloom, I arrived for the Jacquemus re-see at the brand's headquarters near Parc Monceau. Tucked away on a quiet street, the building blended seamlessly into its surroundings—unassuming from the outside, yet inside, it felt like stepping into Jacquemus' imagination. Every corner, every detail bore his signature touch.
I was greeted by a sharply dressed man who handed me a charming detox drink with the unmistakable Jacquemus logo. Ushered into a warm and inviting lobby, I waited for the team's director, who would guide me through the collection. As we moved through the space, we passed Simon’s personal art collection before entering a vast room anchored by the Air statue by Aristide Maillol—an unexpected but telling centerpiece from his private curation, one of his icons. Beyond, multiple rooms unfolded, each carefully displaying the exquisite pieces from LA CROISIÈRE.
Throughout the collection, Jacquemus revisits mid-century glamour through a contemporary lens, delivering structured hourglass dresses in crisp cotton poplin, sculptural jackets, and fluted tulle skirts that evoke nostalgia while maintaining everyday ease. Rather than breezy resortwear, LA CROISIÈRE embraces a couture-inspired sophistication, with fabrics ranging from airy organza to body-contouring knits. Statement prints—including bold animal stripes and playful banana motifs—lend a whimsical yet refined touch to the collection.
Menswear follows suit with a polished, sport-inflected sensibility: impeccably cut double-breasted jackets, streamlined bowling shirts, and athletic-inspired trousers redefine casual elegance. Accessories continue Jacquemus' signature balance of wit and craftsmanship—satin Le Calino heels, basketball-inspired totes, and an ingenious trompe-l'œil approach that transforms leather bags into everyday objects, from milk cartons to pizza boxes and umbrellas.
Sharp eyes are rewarded with an impactful detail: a leather newspaper, impeccably crafted to resemble a rolled-up broadsheet—until unwrapped, revealing an actual article about the show. A perfect blend of chic and camp, it represents Jacquemus' playful yet exacting eye for detail, proving that in his world, fashion is never just about clothes—it's a story waiting to unfold.
Whether on a sun-drenched coastline or in the quiet grandeur of an Art Deco salon, Jacquemus proves that storytelling is his greatest signature—this season, whispered with precision, elegance, and a playful wink. You may shop the collection now online at Jacquemus.com.