Jil Sander presents the fall winter 2023 collection in Milan.
Collection Notes
Lucie and Luke Meier design for individuals. They provide us with the garments, the accessories, the symbols, the confidence, to combine things and ourselves as we like at any given time. An acknowledgment, and embracement, of the age we are in: fuzzy, technical, mobile, ethereal. The invitation to personalize and to be impulsive and unpredictable is clear: silver necklaces, knit hats, gloves, zipped, technical vests, bags with colourful straps, layers… The combinations are infinite, the spirit is light.
Lucie & Luke
The collection is particularly opulent and prismatic in proportion and silhouette, with an accent on the airy, long, and floating. The organic-synthetic divide vanishes. As did gender distinctions and day and night. Sportswear, denim, and couture merge in shapes, materials, colours, and details. Here Lucie and Luke demonstrate how they master construction and technique, with a formalism but also a whimsy.
Perfectly cut, tailored jackets in soft, double-face wool are fastened with metal zippers. The multi-coloured needle punch in felt coats and dresses, and in fluffy matelassé jumpers, blurs the construction lines and illustrates the 3D effect that criss-crosses the collection like a trompe-l’oeil. Wool felt is welded and digitally printed; a further example of the exploration of natural and technical.
Details
A parka made of a reflective, ultralight recycled polyester and real glass becomes almost invisible. A long, airy white cotton dress is filled with silver sequins and crushed aluminum flowers. The drawings of candies and cherries are intarsia knitted into wool or printed on felt and on denim.
A long, fully zipped, pale pink silk cape is printed allover with a floral degradé rose motif. A series of leather and felt jackets and short dresses are sculpted, extremely graphic, in their round shapes, and decidedly waisted.
Trousers are voluminous and modular with zips and coulisse adjustments, or lean, sharp, and ankle-length or elongated. Floating bubble dresses in solid colors and irregularly checked prints have voluminous sleeves.
Color Pallete
Silk, recycled polyester, mohair (the most refined, treated and dyed to seem synthetic), Italian and Japanese wools, felt… the choice of material is deep and refined. The colour palette is primary, metallic, and electric, with bright yellow, green, red, and blue, but it is also nuanced by pastels, white, butter, pale yellow and pink, grey, and black.
Shoes are bold. The new monochrome sneakers and motorcycle boots anchor the silhouettes in a pragmatic manner, while the lean boots with technical heels and square toes underline the collection’s glamorous side.
Collection
