In the dimly lit halls of Milan's Certosa District, Jil Sander's Spring-Summer 2025 collection unfolded with cinematic fervor. Creative directors Luke and Lucie Meier transported us to a world caught between nostalgia and dystopia, where the lines between past and future blur in a haze of neon-lit melancholy.
Otherworldly Inspiration
The collection drew heavily from the evocative work of Canadian photographer Greg Girard, whose images of desolate urban landscapes and lonely nighttime scenes set the tone for the show. This visual inspiration manifested in a color palette that ranged from deep, iridescent petrol blues to muted burgundies, all bathed in an otherworldly glow.
Sharp, boxy silhouettes dominated the runway, with oversized suits and coats for both men and women that seemed to armor the wearer against an uncertain world. The exaggerated proportions – think linebacker shoulders on casual tees and wide-leg trousers that pooled at the ankles – created a striking visual tension that felt both retro and futuristic.
Americana Traditions
The Meiers deftly wove threads of Americana throughout the collection. Subtle Western details like pointed yokes appeared alongside bowling shirts and varsity jackets, creating a nostalgic tapestry that spanned decades. This blend of eras resulted in looks that felt simultaneously timeless and of-the-moment.
Handcrafted Details
As the show progressed, softer elements emerged to balance the collection's harder edges. Delicate crochet embroideries and doily-like inserts added unexpected texture to polo shirts and twinsets. Ribbed-knit dresses with frilled, pearl-studded edges provided a counterpoint to the collection's more structured pieces, hinting at a vulnerability beneath the tough exterior.
The show's finale brought a series of standout prints that left a lasting impression. A cyanotype-inspired shirt featuring a 1970s automobile, rimmed with dramatic black fringe, captured the collection's cinematic quality. Another showstopper was a square coat and shorts set plastered with an image of a retro writing desk – a literal snapshot of nostalgia translated into wearable art.
While not as tightly focused as some past Jil Sander collections, SS25 offered a nuanced take on dressing for uncertain times. Luke and Lucie Meier have crafted a collection that serves as both armor and embrace, acknowledging the darkness of our current moment while offering glimpses of beauty and craftsmanship. In doing so, they've created a wardrobe for the modern urban dweller – one who faces the night with style, substance, and a touch of cinematic flair.