By Jesse Scott
When guests entered the subterranean halls of Espace Niemeyer for Kolor's Fall-Winter 25 show during Paris Fashion Week, they received mysterious iridescent silver packages. Inside each package was an unmarked white envelope, with a dramatic and surprising message from founder Junichi Abe encoded on tracing paper. "The kolor AW25 show is about to start," it said. "This will be a special moment for me. Because it will be my last show as kolor head designer. Even after this season, I'll stay to support kolor from the inside. Thank you for all these years. And I hope we will have your continuous support for kolor."
It was an unexpected announcement from the 54-year-old Abe, who has guided his brand through twenty-one successful years after cutting his teeth with iconic brands Comme des Garçons and Junya Watanabe. And with his selective guest list, including rising K-pop star Seungju, tech entrepreneur John Imah, and French actor Arnaud Binard, buzzing in shock and anticipation, he ensured that his swan song was a moment to remember. A series of complex and quirky looks, beautifully representative of Abe's two-decade journey leading his brand, drifted down an ethereally lit runway before the designer himself made a meandering farewell tour amongst the crowd.
Co-ed Collection Emphasizes Cozy Shearling and Elegant Layering
As expected, layering was critical to the essence of this Fall-Winter collection. Abe proposed his own unique version of cozy casual while also embracing elements of the quiet luxury movement both in color palette and material choice. Shearling coats and vests felt particularly covetous during this rainy Parisian January. Many of the looks conversed with ski lodge chic, while others possessed a sleek urban sensibility defined by classic tailoring and fine details. The versatile and nuanced wardrobe seemed fitting for a fashion-forward Zurich-based individual accustomed to spending weekends in Gstaad: polished, but comfortable and not overly bold. Perhaps the most daring elements of the collection were the shoes and accessories, as oversized fluffy loafers and wool mittens became instant talking points among approving guests.
Voluminous wool harem pants and crocheted sweaters were at the heart of the collection. Abe embraced a number of different knits, from surprising quasi-distressed sweater-vests to fisherman sweaters to richly patterned cardigans. Pairings ranged from oversized blazers to graceful camel top coats, effectively comprising an approachable oeuvre that transcends both time and age.
In a note to guests, Abe spoke of the collection as finding cohesion in contrast, with "parallel timelines" being brought together and the apparent paradoxes of "today & ancient period," "new and aged," and "modern & classic" being seamlessly synthesized. Such a reflection on time created a canvas for Abe to pull together many diverse yet quintessential elements of his career. It felt particularly appropriate for an extensive final collection which was as reflective and nostalgic sartorially as the mystical lighting and crooning melodies which enveloped the runway.
Looking Forward
As the models made their final procession down the runway to the notes "colors soft and true, colors paint the world in every shade of you," the emotional weight of the moment was palpable. While this marks the end of Abe's tenure as head designer, kolor's future remains bright. Sources close to the brand indicate that an announcement regarding the new creative director is expected by March, with Abe maintaining an active advisory role. Given this thoughtful transition and Abe's continued involvement, kolor's distinctive idiosyncratic aesthetic should continue to delight supporters for many seasons to come.
