By Jesse Scott
Kiko Kostadinov pivoted from minimalism for his Fall-Winter 25 menswear collection, incorporating rugged layering and textured contrasts into a series of nuanced looks that reflected the rawness of nature and emphasized the garment construction process. Inspired by the environments of eastern Europe and the traditional and military garments of the region, Kostadinov turned the runway into a leaf-strewn forest floor. "I cling to nothing but everything clings to me," the show notes began. Models walked along the debris-strewn floor in complex silhouettes that revealed more layers, details, and intentional imperfections with each examination. A dark color palette emphasized natural rugged tones while cut and form were defined by a constructivist assemblage technique that carried a rugged practicality.
Eastern European Influences Shape Complex Collection
Bulgaria-born Kostadinov gave this season's looks a distinctive Eastern European sensibility by drawing inspiration from a diverse range of sources including a Russian artist and a Hungarian film director. This was a multidisciplinary and deeply intellectual collection; Kostadinov conversed with foundational yet complex human themes that transcend time and geography and resonate across the artistic sphere. One main inspiration was Hungarian director Belá Tarr. His films take on dystopian and nihilistic undertones despite their starkly grounded and pragmatic nature. He paradoxically suspends the disbelief of audiences by asking them NOT to suspend their disbelief.
At a time when most turn to movies as a form of escapism, Tarr's films capture the achingly ordinary (and inevitably bleak) and turn it into art. A review for his 1988 film "Damnation," which Kostadinov specifically cited, called it a "serotonin-depleted ordeal." With an approach of "less is more," Tarr finds the beauty in reality without the artificial serotonin sugarcoating. Kostadinov achieved the same this season. Oversized silhouettes were versatile, approachable, and effortlessly chic. Exquisite yet subtle embroidery referenced everyday coins and trinkets. And pragmatic items such as shaggy wool coats, thermal knits, and balaclava hoods were given a particular je ne sais quoi through details like asymmetrical buttons and memorable chunky belts.
Russian artist Kon Trubkovich, who explores themes of confinement and rebellion in works that disorient through figurative distortion and dislocation, was another major influence for Kostadinov. Trubkovich invokes disruption through an intense color palette. Kostadinov reflected this through deliberate pops of vivid orange and cerulean on layered tops, patched pants, and textured hoodies.
Military style also informed the collection. This season saw Kostadinov play with black-on-black Bulgarian camouflage through tonal flocked wool. Regarding shoes, square-toed Hungarian-style army boots with embroidered lace guards were an instant hit. These painted a stark contrast to Kostadinov's new but equally popular Asics collaboration, as low top runners referencing 1950's tabi marathon shoes ensured there were options for a diverse range of tastes and looks.
The Road Less Traveled
Evolution is critical for designers, especially in today's rapidly changing fashion landscape. After several seasons of sleek minimalism, Kiko Kostadinov took his "road less traveled" for Fall/Winter 25 - and it was a resounding success. While staying true to his DNA, and indeed referencing his roots, Kostadinov surprised guests with a collection enveloped by new layers of both textiles and metaphorical meaning.
