Kiko Kostadinov's Spring-Summer 2025 collection dared to ask: What if our clothes could tell the story of where we've been and where we're going? This season, Kiko Kostadinov is carving out space with a proposal of characters; women charging through the world to places real and imagined.
The runway, set against a backdrop of stark white drapes, became a canvas for Kostadinov's multi-faceted narrative. Each model embodied a distinct character, from the sharp-suited aviator to the ethereal wanderer, collectively weaving a tale of women navigating through both real and imagined worlds. This storytelling approach marks an evolution for the Bulgarian-born, London-based designer, who since founding his label in 2016 has been known for his architectural tailoring and workwear influences. While his previous collections often explored functionality and uniform-inspired designs, this season saw Kostadinov push into more emotive, narrative-driven territory.
The way histories travel manifests in nostalgic shapes like American football thermals remade through the lens of Japanese vintage. Cashmere and cotton tunics are worn with shorts, and cotton metallic knitwear rumples with wear featuring imagined stamp prints.
The collection features the aviator in sharp uniform tailoring, the warrior in metallic basket weave and hard shell shapes, the women of her memories collecting stamps and stories, and the wanderer, light and airy, her clothes perpetually in motion around her. A vibrant red knit dress with a dramatically draped mustard scarf and a purple ruffle hem captured attention, expertly blending functionality with a touch of whimsy. The look was completed with burgundy knee-high sock and yellow accented flats, embodying the spirit of a woman ready to take flight.
In stark contrast, the collection balanced exploration of darker, more mysterious themes. A standout piece was an all-black ensemble featuring a hooded cape with grey lining, reminiscent of a warrior prepared for battle. This look spoke to Kostadinov's exploration of "metallic basket weave and hard shell shapes," creating a powerful silhouette that commanded the runway.
The designer's fascination with nostalgia and collected histories was evident in a diaphanous white outfit. A sheer top with an intricately knotted scarf detail was paired with flowing pants, evoking the image of the "wanderer, light and airy, her clothes perpetually in motion around her." The addition of a bright blue clutch provided a pop of color, perhaps symbolizing the vivid memories collected on one's travels.
Throughout the collection, Kostadinov's attention to detail was evident in the carefully curated accessories. Models wore molded caps with logo badges, a nod to the idea of "identifying through dress both anonymizing and freeing." The shoes, ranging from ballet boots to buckled loafers and shaped motocross boots, emphasized the collection's theme of movement and journey.
A collector's mentality, remembering your history and engaging with foreign histories collected through travel, inspires another custom stamp print on our second collaboration with Levi's. This motif extended to scarf dresses and leather accessories, with bags "covered in charms and relics from voyages," further emphasizing the theme of travel and collected memories.
Scarves suspended with wire levitate around bias dresses. Classic shapes move on their own accord, breezy jersey with raised embroideries and light sunset colors.
Kostadinov's Spring-Summer 2025 collection is a testament to the designer's ability to craft complex narratives through clothing. By exploring the intersection of past and present, the familiar and the foreign, he has created a line that speaks to the multifaceted nature of modern femininity. The collection invites wearers to embrace the transformative power of fashion, to lose themselves in the world, and ultimately, to find themselves in the clothes.
As the final model left the runway, the audience is left to reflect on a profound journey through the landscapes of identity, memory, and imagination. This season stands as a powerful reminder of fashion's ability to tell stories, evoke emotions, and transport us to worlds both within and beyond our own.
