Let’s Play: Maitrepierre Waxes Nostalgic in Whimsical Spring-Summer 2025 Collection

Text: Jesse Scott 

Titled “Let’s Play,” Maitrepierre’s Spring-Summer 2025 show was a charmingly nostalgic reflection on turn-of-the-century technology and gaming culture. At once retro and futuristic, it took guests on an imaginative temporal roller coaster that fused avant-garde technology (AI projections played throughout the venue) with whimsical re-interpretations of the now-dated devices that introduced many of us to the digital age. September 2024 was a poignant flashpoint for such a show. 

The Tumblr aesthetic is experiencing an Instagram resurgence, “brat summer” brought low-resolution images into the heart of the world’s hottest trends, and Gen Z has pushed back against the overconsumption of incessantly re-modeled smartphones by using flip phones as a fashion statement. Perhaps, if fashion moves in thirty-year cycles, technology moves in ten to twenty-year cycles.  Retro is now unquestionably cool. So was Alphonse Maitrepierre’s latest collection, which was well-received by a star-studded crowd including Clara Berry, Alice Moireau, and Louane.

The show’s invite and title suggested that it would reference retro-gaming culture in some way. The first look left no doubt that Alphonse Maitrepierre, the eponymous brand’s founder, took this theme literally. A cubic top was modeled on the iMac G3, a computer first released in 1998 that is seen as iconic within the tech space. Brightly colored graphics rapidly swept around the garment’s screen as the model walked the runway, recalling the screensavers synonymous with the early 2000s. Elsewhere gaming consoles were transformed into bracelets, bags resembled retro keyboards, and flip phones were used to accessorize a number of looks. The shoes also had a surrealist element; Maitrepierre’s second collaboration with Carel presented eight playful pieces that referenced pigeons and mice in cheerful colors.

Graphics were particularly strong, and emphasized Maitrepierre’s commitment to maintaining a cohesive theme throughout the collection. Joysticks became polka dots and stripes became vortexes on a series of relaxing silhouettes that the press was told was “ideal for relaxing in front of your favorite tv series, whether in pajamas, boxer shorts, joggers, or XXL bathrobes.”

Color blocking was used effectively.  Depending on one’s personal worldview, it was possible to contextualize a particularly impressive sheer red, green, and nude dress as recalling the RGB color scheme of early video games or even a Matisse cut-out. Graphic tees, one emblazoned with a playful anime kitten and the words “best friend,” were balanced by the surrealist sophistication of a tan trench that had no sharp lines and seemed to melt down the models body like one of Dali’s clocks.

Alphonse Maitrepierre, along with many of his young contemporaries, has embraced a movement of playful collections that aim to entertain, disrupt entrenched industry expectations, and encourage people to take fashion less seriously. Yet Maitrepierre’s work is also rooted in a firm belief in sustainability and a profound curiosity about technological innovation. In alignment with the brand’s neutrality objectives, 100% of this season’s pieces were made from deadstock, waste, or certified materials. Many were paired with conceptual 3D printed jewelry by Raphael Everdeen, who also takes inspiration from the world of gaming. 

Opening the schedule on the second day of a hectic Paris Fashion Week, Maitrepierre’s fifth anniversary show transported delighted guests to a joyful whimsical world. A deeply personal glimpse into Maitrepierre’s own sense of nostalgia, it strengthened guests’ connections with the already lovable brand as it enters its next five years.