LOEWE Women’s Spring-Summer 2025: Jonathan Anderson’s Sculptural Minimalism Redefines Luxury at Paris Fashion Week

Text: Mark Benjamin

In the common era of sensory overload, Jonathan Anderson posed a provocative question with LOEWE's Women’s Spring-Summer 2025 collection: "What happens when one takes all the noise away?" The answer comes adorned between the sheet music of Bach and Mozart; amidst the flower petal brushstrokes of Van Gogh. In other words, Anderson’s LOEWE Women’s SS25 collection is a peek into his own musings: a sonata of sartorial eloquence.

The minimalist showspace was anchored by contemporary artist Tracey Emin's poignant bronze bird sculpture, titled "The only place you came to me was in my sleep" (2017). This dialogue between fashion and art, a LOEWE signature, highlighted how creativity thrives in moments of stillness. Emin, appointed Professor of Drawing at the Royal Academy of Arts, London in 2011 and awarded a Damehood in 2024, brought an additional layer of artistic gravitas to the proceedings.

The collection's allure extended beyond the runway, drawing an eclectic mix of cultural luminaries to the front row. Emmy-winning actor Dan Levy, known for his impeccable style, sat alongside the ever-charismatic Jeff Goldblum, pictured below with renowned actress Meg Ryan. Louis Vuitton Men’s Artistic Director Pharrell Williams made a fashionable appearance. K-pop star S.COUPS and celebrated actresses Shin Mina and Yang Mi further underscored LOEWE’s global appeal. Rising star Ayo Edebiri, fresh off her recent red carpet accolades, rounded out the impressive guest list. This diverse array of talent reflected the brand's ability to resonate across generations and industries.

Anderson's "radical reduction" philosophy manifested in a collection that prioritized form over frill. Boning and wiring allowed skirts and dresses to defy gravity, creating sculptural silhouettes that drifted down the catwalk. These architectural pieces, reminiscent of Anderson's early designs, contrasted with more understated offerings on the runway. Tailored trousers paired with defiant T-shirts - creating a foil between the extraordinary and the everyday.

The beauty looks, created by Pat McGrath, complemented the collection's philosophy: golden arches extending to the brow bone and silver graphic winged eyes added a touch of reimagined opulent antiquity to the runway. McGrath used her new Luminous Legends: Mega Eye Shadow Palette, specifically the Golden Muse and Lunar Luxury pigments, enhanced with glitter and foil for maximum impact.

With distractions stripped away, surface treatments took center stage. Delicate silks bloomed with Impressionist florals, while feathers received an artistic upgrade through printed reproductions of famous paintings and unexpected camouflage patterns. Mother of pearl shells added an organic, iridescent element. Sequins added liquid-like luminosity to knitwear, and soft nappa and croc embossed leather pieces emphasized the collection's focus on tactile pleasure.

LOEWE’s footwear offerings embraced comfort made in continuity with the ready-to-wear collection. Boat shoes, elongated oxfords, and the intriguing high-top "Ballet Runners" provided a foundation for the collection's avant-garde elements. The debut of the Madrid bag - a light, supple trapezoid shape described as "feather light and squishy" - offered a fresh take on everyday elegance. Not to be outdone, the iconic Puzzle bag received a squishy and feather light update for SS25 showcasing Anderson's ability to continually reinvent house classics.

The collection's T-shirts served as canvases for unexpected artistic homages. A standout piece featured Johann Sebastian Bach's sheet music, printed in a way reminiscent of rock concert memorabilia. This clever juxtaposition of high and popular culture epitomized Anderson's ability to create fashion that feels both intellectually stimulating and refreshing. The musical theme extended beyond the garments, with Bach's sheet music adorning the outside walls of the showspace, creating an immersive experience that engaged multiple senses.

In this era of maximalism and digital noise, Jonathan Anderson's Spring-Summer 2025 collection for LOEWE is his own soliloquy to the fashion world. By stripping away the superfluous, Anderson has sculpted negative space into a tangible luxury. Each piece serves as a meditation on form, challenging our perceptions of what constitutes 'design' in the 21st century. Anderson's radical reduction is, paradoxically an expansion of LOEWE’s design language. In life as in art and fashion, sometimes innovation lies in what's left unsaid, or in this case, unadorned.

As the fashion industry grapples with questions of sustainability and purpose, LOEWE’s Women’s SS25 offers a compelling answer. It suggests that the future of luxury isn't about accumulation, but curation; not excess, but essence. In doing so, Anderson proposed a new fashion philosophy: one where silence speaks as loud as spectacle.