The iconic watchmaker Daniel Roth became popular among watch collectors in the 90s. Now led by La Frabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, Daniel Roth welcomes its second golden age with the Tourbillon Souscription, a timepiece defined by artisanal quality and a refined aesthetic.
Toubillon Souscription Origins
The revival of Daniel Roth begins with the Tourbillon Souscription, a meticulous homage to Roth's original tourbillon wristwatch from 1988, a landmark watch.
Established in 1988, Daniel Roth pioneered independent watchmaking before the genre was recognized as historically significant. Roth defined Independent watchmaking.
The inaugural creation of Daniel Roth was a tourbillon, the reference 2187/C187, with double faces of 1988. Before establishing his namesake brand, Roth designed Breguet's first-ever tourbillon wristwatch. His practice illuminated the path for future generations of watchmakers by developing sophisticated designs that embody traditional craftsmanship.
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The Tourbillon
The defining complication in haute horlogerie at the time, the Tourbillon was an exceptionally rare mechanism, especially in wristwatches. The brand's design codes tribute traditional haute horlogerie, and its original case design, the double-ellipse, became iconic.
A recognizable brand signature after 35 years, the double-ellipse is a cross between a circle and a square. It is a design rooted in mechanical considerations: the case is a perfect canvas for a tourbillon because it features an off-center dial while highlighting the one-minute Tourbillon.
The Daniel Roth Revival
Thirty-five years after the brand was founded, Daniel Roth again debuts with a defining tourbillon. Paying homage to the original 1988 design, the Tourbillon Souscription celebrates the values and timeless Daniel Roth aesthetics.
Daniel Roth taps the skills of the finest watchmakers, constructors, and specialist suppliers to create artisanal timepieces. Talented craftsmen and women at La Fabrique du Temps continue the legacy—the brand's mantra since its foundation is La Montre Objet d'Art.
Designed in traditional yellow gold, the Tourbillon Souscription case is a double ellipse with a single face 9.2mm high.
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Technical Specifications
Tourbillon Souscription DR0011YG-01
- DR001 Calibre: mechanical movement with manual winding developed and assembled by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton
- Tourbillon 1-minute
- Thickness: 4,6mm
- 206 components
- 80 hours of power reserve
- 21,600 oscillations per hour – 3Hz
- 19 jewels
- Tourbillon: flat spring
- Tourbillon’s cage: 460mgCase
- 18K yellow gold 3N
- Dimensions: 38.6 x 35.5mm
- Thickness: 9.2mm
- Flat anti-reflection sapphire crystal • Water-resistant to 30m
- Lug width: 20mmDial
- 18k Yellow gold 3N with Clous de Paris guilloche
- DANIEL ROTH and watch individual number engravings • Côtes de Genève on side plates of the Tourbillon
- Plate underneath the Tourbillon: frostedStrap
- Brown calfskin leather buckle
- 18K Yellow gold 3N tang-type buckleWatch weight
- Approx. 77.5g
Details
The dial is designed in the mountain-top workshop of Kari Voutilainen, a leading independent watchmaker. The dial retains the markings of the original with streamlined typography. Beneath the dial is caliber DR001, conceived exclusively for Daniel Roth. Manufactured by La Fabrique du Temps, the Geneva workshop founded by master watchmakers Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini personally oversee the creation of each DANIEL ROTH timepiece.
Our vision for DANIEL ROTH is to respect the brand's history while leveraging some of the concepts and savoir-faire that Enrico and I have accumulated in our careers.
Michel Navas
Respecting the origins of the brand and the craftsmanship of its foundational pieces is especially important for us since we are both long-time friends of Daniel. Many of us look up to Daniel, an important figure who spearheaded contemporary independent watchmaking.
Enrico Barbasini
DR001
The DR001 is an in-house manufacturing movement designed for the Tourbillon Souscription. Constructed to fit seamlessly with the Daniel Roth case, the DR001 is a form movement in the shape of a double ellipse, an uncommon achievement considering round movements are an industry norm. The DR001 is manually wound and boasts a generous 80-hour power reserve, more than enough to keep it running for a weekend.
The DR001 is discreet in its accomplishments – the caliber is placed discreetly behind a solid back that bears the unique number of each watch. This is a tribute to early Daniel Roth timepieces featuring similarly-engraved solid backs. Then and now, this reflects the simple fact that quality need not be seen to be known.
The Tourbillon
The DR001 is the centerpiece of the tourbillon regulator. The Tourbillon makes one revolution every minute and functions as a seconds hand. The tourbillon cage carries a three-armed, heat-blued seconds hand read in tandem with a tri-sectioned seconds scale on the dial – a quirky detail found on all original Daniel Roth Tourbillon watches.
Finally, the case and dial are framed on either side with plates decorated with Côtes de Genève, while the plate below the Tourbillon is frosted.
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Limited Production of Tourbillon Souscription
Only 20 Tourbillon Souscription will be offered. This offering takes after 1988 original in design and exclusivity. The Tourbillon Souscription will be sold on a souscription basis – patrons of Daniel Roth "subscribe" with a deposit upon order confirmation. The balance is due for delivery in early 2024.
Priced at CHF140,000 before taxes, the Tourbillon Souscription will be available only at select retail partners.
As the first Daniel Roth tourbillon wristwatch of 1988 gave birth to later variations and innovations, the impressive Tourbillon Souscription is only the opening act for the revival of Daniel Roth.