Ludovic de Saint Sernin's AW24 collection made a striking debut at NYFW, stepping away from its Parisian tradition to honor the iconic New York artist Robert Mapplethorpe. The collection, "X: The Robert Mapplethorpe Collection," weaves a narrative that transitions from the innocence to the provocative, mirroring Mapplethorpe's own artistic journey.
Dualities of Mapplethorpe: Innocence and Eroticism
Embracing the contrast between ethereal innocence and seductive darkness, the collection presents a sophisticated interpretation of Mapplethorpe's multifaceted persona. Each piece, from gossamer vests to shadowy silk gowns, represents a dialogue between the two extremes, much like Mapplethorpe's contrasting images of delicate flowers and bold eroticism.
The Essence of New York: Grit and Glamour
The collection reflects the dichotomy of New York City itself—its rawness and its opulence. De Saint Sernin captures the essence of Mapplethorpe's New York, from the elegance of uptown soirées to the uninhibited spirit of downtown scenes. This duality is translated into a fashion narrative that pays homage to the city's cultural dexterity.
Power Dressing with a Modern Twist
The influence of the 80s power dressing is unmistakable in the collection's bold silhouettes and luxurious materials. Exaggerated shoulders, cinched waists, and the glossy textures of calfskin and scarlet pony give a nod to the era's decadence, while maintaining a modern edge that is unmistakably Ludovic de Saint Sernin.
Artisanal Craftsmanship Meets Fine Jewelry
In an exquisite blend of fashion and artisanship, the collection introduces fine jewelry in collaboration with TOUS, showcasing pieces that carry the label's creative vision into the realm of luxury adornment. These pieces, with their 'X' motifs and rich materials, celebrate the timeless appeal of Mapplethorpe's work.
Floral Fantasies and Leather Dreams
The delicate beauty of Mapplethorpe's flower photographs is reimagined in the collection's fabric, with hand-cut appliqués and intricate crystal work. Leather, a material synonymous with Mapplethorpe's more provocative side, is masterfully used to create pieces that evoke sensuality and strength.
Embracing the Underground
As the show culminates, the collection dives deep into the heart of New York's underground. The daring designs channel the raw energy of the city's nightlife, with eyelet-trimmed harnesses and revealing cuts that celebrate the unapologetic boldness that defines both Mapplethorpe's legacy and the Ludovic de Saint Sernin brand.
Ludovic de Saint Sernin's Autumn Winter 2024 collection at NYFW is a masterful celebration of New York's dual identity, a tribute to Robert Mapplethorpe, and a testament to the city's enduring influence on the world of fashion. The brand's debut on the New York stage is a powerful statement that intertwines the city's historical creativity with the contemporary vision of one of fashion's most esteemed labels.