Through a mesmerizing and provocative digital presentation,Ludovic de Saint Serninhas unveiled hisSpring-Summer 2025collection, an homage to the world of dance. Eschewing the traditional runway, the designer presents his vision through an evocative image series, lensed byAdam Peter Johnsonand styled byCarlos Nazario, capturing the collection's intrinsic tension between statuesque grace and provocative allure.
De Saint Sernin's SS25 ready-to-wear line draws inspiration from artistic disciplines and influences. The flowing gowns ofPina Bausch's Tanztheater Wuppertal,Rudolf Nureyev's emblematic studio and stage attire, andRobert Mapplethorpe's prolific documentation of professional dancers all serve as muses. The result is a collection that playfully subverts assumptions of properness, with ballet staples reimagined through the designer's signature lens.
The designer's meticulous craftsmanship, soon to be showcased in hisforthcoming haute couture collectionin January 2025 forJean Paul Gaultier, is evident in every piece. Raw-edged jackets composed of fluttering layers of virgin wool create a sense of perpetual movement. Low-slung leather briefs, adorned with quivering ostrich plumes, offer a tantalizing contrast of texture and form. Vests and boleros, painstakingly embroidered with artfully arranged goose feathers in virginal white and ink black, embody the collection's central Black Swan duality.
De Saint Sernin's innovative approach to materials and construction shines throughout the collection. Gossamer tawny chiffon and filmy white cotton are transformed into layered jersey tank tops, some featuring provocative knotted harness necklines. A standout piece, a leather leotard with sensuous hipbone-baring cutouts and the designer's signature eyelet trim, perfectly encapsulates the collection's balance of dance functionality and erotic suggestion.
The designer's penchant for pushing boundaries is evident in pieces like the chocolate leather bralettes that descend into signature grommeted coils, snaking around the body to reveal teasing glimpses of skin. These are paired with puddling mermaid skirts in pastel metal mesh and translucent sequinned chiffon, creating a captivating interplay of hard and soft elements.
While reimagining some brand signatures – such as replacing lace-up closures on denim jeans with a traditional button fly – de Saint Sernin also reinforces his established aesthetic. Sheath dresses and trousers constructed using his inimitable laced strap technique make a strong appearance. Eyelet-studded chaps emanate what the designer explicitly refers to as "leather bar sleaze," an intrinsic feature of the brand's lexicon. These provocative pieces are skillfully juxtaposed with more traditional outerwear, as models are layered under amply cut trench coats and bomber jackets in rich suede, creating a compelling journey from dance rehearsal to after hours aesthetics.
The collection's presentation through Johnson's high-contrast imagery of balletic poses, styled with Nazario's air of nonchalant elegance, perfectly captures de Saint Sernin's vision. Each shot is imbued with an arresting severity that highlights the delicate interplay of innocence and eroticism at the heart of the collection.
Ludovic de Saint Sernin's Spring-Summer 2025 collection is a sartorial ballet that pushes the boundaries of contemporary fashion. By blending the refined poise of classical dance with his provocative aesthetic, de Saint Sernin has created a collection that celebrates both the artistry of movement and the sensuality of the human form. As the fashion world eagerly anticipates his foray into haute couture, this ready-to-wear collection stands as a testament to de Saint Sernin's evolving mastery of his craft and his unique vision in the realm of high fashion.